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Post by saberroyale on Nov 7, 2018 12:44:31 GMT -5
Is there any way to keep the 3.3v pad from supplying current until after the saber turns on a font (sound playing)? I see the 5v pad already does this.
I would really like to be able to wire 8 LEDs from a 10 led Bargraph by using these two pads with the other six so the LEDs will turn on and off in succession.
If there is an easier way that hasn't occurred to me, I'd love to hear it (aside from doubling up some of the LEDs).
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 7, 2018 13:43:04 GMT -5
Is there any way to keep the 3.3v pad from supplying current until after the saber turns on a font (sound playing)? I see the 5v pad already does this. I would really like to be able to wire 8 LEDs from a 10 led Bargraph by using these two pads with the other six so the LEDs will turn on and off in succession. If there is an easier way that hasn't occurred to me, I'd love to hear it (aside from doubling up some of the LEDs). No. The 3.3v feeds the cpu. No 3.3v = nothing happens. If you don't need any neopixels, you can use data 1, 2, 3 and 5 to drive LEDs (up to 20mA) 4 data pins + 6 LED channels = 10 But I'm thinking that you probably want to drive some other things too, right? Another option would be to buy a couple of these www.adafruit.com/product/1378 each chip can drive 3 bar segments. It would require a little coding to make it appear like a 10-segment blade with one color per segment instead of 4 pixels with RGB, but I could help with that I suppose. |
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Post by megtoothsith on Nov 7, 2018 16:05:10 GMT -5
...or make your bargraph out of neopixels!
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Post by illrigger on Nov 7, 2018 16:18:24 GMT -5
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Post by saberroyale on Nov 7, 2018 17:30:16 GMT -5
Is there any way to keep the 3.3v pad from supplying current until after the saber turns on a font (sound playing)? I see the 5v pad already does this. I would really like to be able to wire 8 LEDs from a 10 led Bargraph by using these two pads with the other six so the LEDs will turn on and off in succession. If there is an easier way that hasn't occurred to me, I'd love to hear it (aside from doubling up some of the LEDs). No. The 3.3v feeds the cpu. No 3.3v = nothing happens. If you don't need any neopixels, you can use data 1, 2, 3 and 5 to drive LEDs (up to 20mA) 4 data pins + 6 LED channels = 10 But I'm thinking that you probably want to drive some other things too, right? Another option would be to buy a couple of these www.adafruit.com/product/1378 each chip can drive 3 bar segments. It would require a little coding to make it appear like a 10-segment blade with one color per segment instead of 4 pixels with RGB, but I could help with that I suppose. The link is broken, or item is missing. 404 not found. The other link above is what I'm already doing on another saber. On one saber I'll be making a custom neopixel Bargraph, but I was specifically wondering about these 10 led Bargraphs. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F330426383751I'm a little confused. Are you saying I can drive regular LEDs off the data pads as well, up to 20mA? Because that's exactly what I'm reading, but didn't realize I could. If so, I'd have no issue driving only eight of the 10 LEDs in the bargraph, meaning I could use led pads 3, 4, 5, and 6, while using data 2-5 for the LEDs. The main blade could be wired to just LEDs 1 and 2. If I don't draw full power from a neopixel blade, I see no reason I shouldn't be able to use just two pads for the blade. |
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 7, 2018 17:53:51 GMT -5
No. The 3.3v feeds the cpu. No 3.3v = nothing happens. If you don't need any neopixels, you can use data 1, 2, 3 and 5 to drive LEDs (up to 20mA) 4 data pins + 6 LED channels = 10 But I'm thinking that you probably want to drive some other things too, right? Another option would be to buy a couple of these www.adafruit.com/product/1378 each chip can drive 3 bar segments. It would require a little coding to make it appear like a 10-segment blade with one color per segment instead of 4 pixels with RGB, but I could help with that I suppose. The link is broken, or item is missing. 404 not found. The other link above is what I'm already doing on another saber. On one saber I'll be making a custom neopixel Bargraph, but I was specifically wondering about these 10 led Bargraphs. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F330426383751I'm a little confused. Are you saying I can drive regular LEDs off the data pads as well, up to 20mA? Because that's exactly what I'm reading, but didn't realize I could. If so, I'd have no issue driving only eight of the 10 LEDs in the bargraph, meaning I could use led pads 3, 4, 5, and 6, while using data 2-5 for the LEDs. The main blade could be wired to just LEDs 1 and 2. If I don't draw full power from a neopixel blade, I see no reason I shouldn't be able to use just two pads for the blade. Weird, the link works fine for me. And yes, you can drive regular LEDs off of the data pads on the proffieboard. (With some resistors so you don't fry the LEDs...) By default, the simpleblade code, uses analogWrite() which is nice because it lets you set how bright you want the LED to be. However, it uses a timer to do that. That timer is the same timer used to drive neopixel data. So if you use ANY neopixels, analogWrite() doesn't work on pin 1, 2, 3 and 5. (Pin 4 and 6 are not configured for PWM output right now.) However, if all you want is on/off, that can be done with digitalWrite() instead of analogWrite(). digitalWrite doesn't need a timer and can happily coexist with neopixels on any of the data pins. It would be pretty limited in capabilities, and would require a little coding since there is currently no code for operating things with digitalWrite(). Hope this helps and doesn't just make you more confused.  |
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Post by darthegon on Nov 8, 2018 9:39:55 GMT -5
Hello. I have a quick question about the tracks? Can you have multiple tracks for a font? Say I have four different songs I would like to play at random when you activate the tracks feature for lets say my first font. Can this be done?
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Post by megtoothsith on Nov 8, 2018 13:05:19 GMT -5
Hello. I have a quick question about the tracks? Can you have multiple tracks for a font? Say I have four different songs I would like to play at random when you activate the tracks feature for lets say my first font. Can this be done? Not without coding modifications. Right now, on the stock software, you get one track per preset (font). You can play any track on any preset via a blue tooth controller. If you want multiple tracks on the same preset, you can replicate the preset and change tracks on each preset. |
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obi6
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Posts: 41 
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Post by obi6 on Nov 9, 2018 0:53:56 GMT -5
Hi,
My computers cannot seem to detect the proffie. I have installed the proffie plugin and windows have also successfully installed the driver for STM32BOOTLOADER. When the board is plugged in, it doesn't show in any of the ports. I have tried both my desktop and laptop without any ports showing.
My "Tools" drop down menu shows:
Board : "Proffieboard"
USB Type "Serial"
CPU Speed : "80 MHz"
DOSF : SDCARD (SPI)"
Optimize: "Smallest Code"
Port
Get Board Info
Programmer: "AVRISP mkII" (should this be changed to STM32Bootloader ?
Serial Monitor doesn't work as com port is not found.
I have tried rebooting the computer several times so that it can auto detect the board
I checked the Device Manager and STM32Bootloader is listed under Universal Serial Bus devices
If it helps, both computers are running window 7. (32 bit and 64 bit), Arduino 1.8.5 (I used the same setup to run the teensysaber v3 with absolutely no problem)
What can I do?
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Post by boikonur on Nov 9, 2018 2:59:47 GMT -5
Hi, My computers cannot seem to detect the proffie. I have installed the proffie plugin and windows have also successfully installed the driver for STM32BOOTLOADER. When the board is plugged in, it doesn't show in any of the ports. I have tried both my desktop and laptop without any ports showing. My "Tools" drop down menu shows: Board : "Proffieboard" USB Type "Serial" CPU Speed : "80 MHz" DOSF : SDCARD (SPI)" Optimize: "Smallest Code" Port Get Board Info Programmer: "AVRISP mkII" (should this be changed to STM32Bootloader ? Serial Monitor doesn't work as com port is not found. I have tried rebooting the computer several times so that it can auto detect the board I checked the Device Manager and STM32Bootloader is listed under Universal Serial Bus devices If it helps, both computers are running window 7. (32 bit and 64 bit), Arduino 1.8.5 (I used the same setup to run the teensysaber v3 with absolutely no problem) What can I do? Redo The step with the Zadig Software and the specific steps for the win7 setup |
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obi6
Recruit
Posts: 41
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Post by obi6 on Nov 9, 2018 4:45:23 GMT -5
Hi, My computers cannot seem to detect the proffie. I have installed the proffie plugin and windows have also successfully installed the driver for STM32BOOTLOADER. When the board is plugged in, it doesn't show in any of the ports. I have tried both my desktop and laptop without any ports showing. My "Tools" drop down menu shows: Board : "Proffieboard" USB Type "Serial" CPU Speed : "80 MHz" DOSF : SDCARD (SPI)" Optimize: "Smallest Code" Port Get Board Info Programmer: "AVRISP mkII" (should this be changed to STM32Bootloader ? Serial Monitor doesn't work as com port is not found. I have tried rebooting the computer several times so that it can auto detect the board I checked the Device Manager and STM32Bootloader is listed under Universal Serial Bus devices If it helps, both computers are running window 7. (32 bit and 64 bit), Arduino 1.8.5 (I used the same setup to run the teensysaber v3 with absolutely no problem) What can I do? Redo The step with the Zadig Software and the specific steps for the win7 setup I did the Zadig as well as installing the windows driver as well. When i plug it in, device manager list it as a STM32Bootloader, but no ports appear in arduino. Now my proffie wouldn't boot up anymore even when i remove the micro usb cable. |
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 9, 2018 4:56:07 GMT -5
Redo The step with the Zadig Software and the specific steps for the win7 setup I did the Zadig as well as installing the windows driver as well. When i plug it in, device manager list it as a STM32Bootloader, but no ports appear in arduino. Now my proffie wouldn't boot up anymore even when i remove the micro usb cable. No ports will appear when the board is in bootloader mode. (STM32 BOOTLOADER) If the board is in proffieboard mode, a port should appear in the menues. |
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Post by fernferro on Nov 9, 2018 7:11:39 GMT -5
Hi Profezzorm, wanted to ask you since i want to make an tri-led star install with 2 AV illuminated buttons the diagram on the proffie page doesnt have that option, wanted to ask you where to i need to solder the switches leds? thanks for your time
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obi6
Recruit
Posts: 41
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Post by obi6 on Nov 9, 2018 7:28:09 GMT -5
I did the Zadig as well as installing the windows driver as well. When i plug it in, device manager list it as a STM32Bootloader, but no ports appear in arduino. Now my proffie wouldn't boot up anymore even when i remove the micro usb cable. No ports will appear when the board is in bootloader mode. (STM32 BOOTLOADER) If the board is in proffieboard mode, a port should appear in the menues. How to get the board in proffieboard mode? I just want to upload my changes and connect the proffie to arduino for the first time but it's not detecting the board. I have tried 1 desktop and 2 laptops. what can i do? In the long process of trying to get the computer to detect the proffie, i have attempted many tings. Among them 1. Setting programmer to Bootloader and then using Upload with bootloader. It seems to "download completely" but then hang at the "transitioning..." 2. For a very brief moment, I was able to connect, it showed a "butterfly" board and the serial monitor greeted me with "Teensy". Thru the serial monitor, I can see the board booted up snd going thru the fonts but there is no sound. The message that appear the most is Amplifier is off, beep battery is low (when the battery is actually fully charged), battery is 0.03 etc. I was never able to get connected like that again. Most of the time, the "device is not recognized or has malfunctioned" and did not show any port connected to proffie. 3. I have used arduino version 1.8.3, 1.8.5 and 1.8.7 with same results 4. I have gone thru the process of installing new version of arduino, proffie plug-in, board manager, zadic, and windows drivers on 3 different computers (with windows update turned on by default) 5. Before connecting to the computer, I was able to boot up the saber. But after putting it through so many experiments, the board no longer boots up anymore (battery is still full, key kill not inserted). I have connected the teensy saber V3 many many times and did many changes to it before and it worked very well every time. I am at loss on how to proceed with this board? Can anyone help? |
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Post by timeless on Nov 9, 2018 10:02:13 GMT -5
Hi Profezzorm, wanted to ask you since i want to make an tri-led star install with 2 AV illuminated buttons the diagram on the proffie page doesnt have that option, wanted to ask you where to i need to solder the switches leds? thanks for your time Common positiv on battery for example and you can use powerpin 4 and 5 (one for each switch) for the - side. You'll need to add 1 line or 2 in the config depending on the effects you wanna give them. |
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 9, 2018 15:00:01 GMT -5
No ports will appear when the board is in bootloader mode. (STM32 BOOTLOADER) If the board is in proffieboard mode, a port should appear in the menues. How to get the board in proffieboard mode? I just want to upload my changes and connect the proffie to arduino for the first time but it's not detecting the board. I have tried 1 desktop and 2 laptops. what can i do? In the long process of trying to get the computer to detect the proffie, i have attempted many tings. Among them 1. Setting programmer to Bootloader and then using Upload with bootloader. It seems to "download completely" but then hang at the "transitioning..." 2. For a very brief moment, I was able to connect, it showed a "butterfly" board and the serial monitor greeted me with "Teensy". Thru the serial monitor, I can see the board booted up snd going thru the fonts but there is no sound. The message that appear the most is Amplifier is off, beep battery is low (when the battery is actually fully charged), battery is 0.03 etc. I was never able to get connected like that again. Most of the time, the "device is not recognized or has malfunctioned" and did not show any port connected to proffie. 3. I have used arduino version 1.8.3, 1.8.5 and 1.8.7 with same results 4. I have gone thru the process of installing new version of arduino, proffie plug-in, board manager, zadic, and windows drivers on 3 different computers (with windows update turned on by default) 5. Before connecting to the computer, I was able to boot up the saber. But after putting it through so many experiments, the board no longer boots up anymore (battery is still full, key kill not inserted). I have connected the teensy saber V3 many many times and did many changes to it before and it worked very well every time. I am at loss on how to proceed with this board? Can anyone help? You don't need to get the board into proffiboard mode to program it. If the board is in proffieboard mode when you hit upload, Arduino will use the port to tell the board to reboot into bootloader mode. None of that is need if the board is already in bootloader mode. Once the board is programmed, is should boot up in proffieboard mode automatically. Since the board already comes programmed with the "default_proffieboard_config.h", it should show up as a "proffieboard" the first time you hook it up to your computer. Finally, let me answer your actual question: If the board is in bootloader mode and you want it to go back to "proffieboard" mode, just press the reset button. Sometimes, if a bad program is uploaded, or if the programming is aborted half-way through, the board gets stuck in a reboot loop and does not show up when you plug it into a computer at all. If that happens, you just need to press BOOT+RESET to put the board into bootloader mode (while connected to USB), and it should show up in bootloader mode. Then you can just hit the upload button and everything should be back to normal. |
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 9, 2018 15:02:29 GMT -5
Hi Profezzorm, wanted to ask you since i want to make an tri-led star install with 2 AV illuminated buttons the diagram on the proffie page doesnt have that option, wanted to ask you where to i need to solder the switches leds? thanks for your time You'll probably want to connect them to one of the LED channels. The LED in an AV button is basically the same as the LED in a crystal chamber, so start with a config file for a tree-cree and a crystal chamber. The config file generator doesn't have support for adding two "crystal chambers", so you will have to add the second one manually, and if you can't figure out how, I can help. |
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Post by easymoney on Nov 9, 2018 19:02:40 GMT -5
Hello All, I'm new to this stuff and am looking to build two light sabers. My intent is to get my niece interested in "Pretending/Makebelieving" again, since her 13 year old friends think it's stupid and she has two younger siblings who would love to play with her. She's a huge Star Wars fan and I'm thinking this sophisticated of a device would blow the socks off her friends (thus no embarrassment from playing with it), and it might reignite her desire to play with her younger siblings. A tertiary goal is to get her wrapping her head around things like electronics, computer boards, and mechanical engineering. My plan is to ask her to "Help" me build a lightsaber, which will of course become hers once it's complete. I'm making a second one because I'm sure one of her siblings will need it to play with her, and I have a 7 month old who can inherit it. I'm hoping to learn from you guys on here so I can figure things out on "my build", so when she comes over to help me on the one she doesn't know will become hers, I will already have an idea of what I'm doing. I'm new to these forums as well as forums in general. I don't really use them a lot so please let me know if this post is in the wrong area. The 2 wiring diagrams I am considering using (trying to figure out if I can replace the dedicated LED in the crystal chamber with a "PL9823" so the crystal will always be able to match the blade). Wiring Schematic for Single Color Crystal Chamber ![]() (Image won't display so here's the link) Wiring Schematic for PL9823 Crystal Chamber(Image won't display so here's the link) Here are the parts I've ordered for the two builds: (Image won't display so here's the link) Build #1 Parts List(Image won't display so here's the link) Build #2 Parts ListNo idea if these pictures will embed properly or not. Please let me know how to do it correctly if I screw it up. Assuming that I make a couple of 34" NeoPixel blades as I'm hearing are pretty standard, along with a couple of 30" ones for the midgets, what kind of specification resistors am I needing? The diagram does a great job of listing the locations, but I'm a bit confused by the math listed on the Fredrik website. Given the 5w voltage requirement of the strips, and approximately 250 (125 per side) LED's at the recommended 30 mAh, I'm getting about 7.5 amps draw. If the board is only capable of supplying 3.7 (up to 4.1 or 4.2 with a rechargeable battery), does that mean I need a 3.43 (repeating) ohm, and a -6.75w? I guess the voltage from the battery being under the LED demand wattage is what's screwing me up. I know the LED's will work with the lower voltage, but the tutorial doesn't list how to calculate the needed equipment for a NeoPixel blade that wants to draw 5 watts. If anyone can set me straight on all of this I'd appreciate it. I know I have a wait on all of the parts from Saber Forge, but I have the proffie's and should have the Bluetooth modules and chassis soon, so I'd like to start figuring out the wiring while I work on my soldering skills. Thanks in advance for anyone who tries to straighten this noob out. -Luke |
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 9, 2018 20:38:27 GMT -5
Hello All, I'm new to this stuff and am looking to build two light sabers. My intent is to get my niece interested in "Pretending/Makebelieving" again, since her 13 year old friends think it's stupid and she has two younger siblings who would love to play with her. She's a huge Star Wars fan and I'm thinking this sophisticated of a device would blow the socks off her friends (thus no embarrassment from playing with it), and it might reignite her desire to play with her younger siblings. A tertiary goal is to get her wrapping her head around things like electronics, computer boards, and mechanical engineering. My plan is to ask her to "Help" me build a lightsaber, which will of course become hers once it's complete. I'm making a second one because I'm sure one of her siblings will need it to play with her, and I have a 7 month old who can inherit it. I'm hoping to learn from you guys on here so I can figure things out on "my build", so when she comes over to help me on the one she doesn't know will become hers, I will already have an idea of what I'm doing. I'm new to these forums as well as forums in general. I don't really use them a lot so please let me know if this post is in the wrong area. The 2 wiring diagrams I am considering using (trying to figure out if I can replace the dedicated LED in the crystal chamber with a "PL9823" so the crystal will always be able to match the blade). Wiring Schematic for Single Color Crystal Chamber![]() (Image won't display so here's the link) Wiring Schematic for PL9823 Crystal Chamber(Image won't display so here's the link) Here are the parts I've ordered for the two builds: (Image won't display so here's the link) Build #1 Parts List(Image won't display so here's the link) Build #2 Parts ListNo idea if these pictures will embed properly or not. Please let me know how to do it correctly if I screw it up. Assuming that I make a couple of 34" NeoPixel blades as I'm hearing are pretty standard, along with a couple of 30" ones for the midgets, what kind of specification resistors am I needing? The diagram does a great job of listing the locations, but I'm a bit confused by the math listed on the Fredrik website. Given the 5w voltage requirement of the strips, and approximately 250 (125 per side) LED's at the recommended 30 mAh, I'm getting about 7.5 amps draw. If the board is only capable of supplying 3.7 (up to 4.1 or 4.2 with a rechargeable battery), does that mean I need a 3.43 (repeating) ohm, and a -6.75w? I guess the voltage from the battery being under the LED demand wattage is what's screwing me up. I know the LED's will work with the lower voltage, but the tutorial doesn't list how to calculate the needed equipment for a NeoPixel blade that wants to draw 5 watts. If anyone can set me straight on all of this I'd appreciate it. I know I have a wait on all of the parts from Saber Forge, but I have the proffie's and should have the Bluetooth modules and chassis soon, so I'd like to start figuring out the wiring while I work on my soldering skills. Thanks in advance for anyone who tries to straighten this noob out. -Luke That's a long list and post. I don't see anything wrong with the list, but I'm probably not the best person go give advice on to build a good chassis. I highly recommend starting a separate thread for your build and questions and pictures of progress there. As for the resistors, I think you're confusing volts, amps and amp-hours. The math is meant for when you're driving a LED star, not for neopixels. For neopixels, you just need some 330ohm resistors. The resistors go on the data line, not the power line, so the wattage and all that stuff doesn't matter. |
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obi6
Recruit
Posts: 41
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Post by obi6 on Nov 9, 2018 21:35:04 GMT -5
How to get the board in proffieboard mode? I just want to upload my changes and connect the proffie to arduino for the first time but it's not detecting the board. I have tried 1 desktop and 2 laptops. what can i do? In the long process of trying to get the computer to detect the proffie, i have attempted many tings. Among them 1. Setting programmer to Bootloader and then using Upload with bootloader. It seems to "download completely" but then hang at the "transitioning..." 2. For a very brief moment, I was able to connect, it showed a "butterfly" board and the serial monitor greeted me with "Teensy". Thru the serial monitor, I can see the board booted up snd going thru the fonts but there is no sound. The message that appear the most is Amplifier is off, beep battery is low (when the battery is actually fully charged), battery is 0.03 etc. I was never able to get connected like that again. Most of the time, the "device is not recognized or has malfunctioned" and did not show any port connected to proffie. 3. I have used arduino version 1.8.3, 1.8.5 and 1.8.7 with same results 4. I have gone thru the process of installing new version of arduino, proffie plug-in, board manager, zadic, and windows drivers on 3 different computers (with windows update turned on by default) 5. Before connecting to the computer, I was able to boot up the saber. But after putting it through so many experiments, the board no longer boots up anymore (battery is still full, key kill not inserted). I have connected the teensy saber V3 many many times and did many changes to it before and it worked very well every time. I am at loss on how to proceed with this board? Can anyone help? You don't need to get the board into proffiboard mode to program it. If the board is in proffieboard mode when you hit upload, Arduino will use the port to tell the board to reboot into bootloader mode. None of that is need if the board is already in bootloader mode. Once the board is programmed, is should boot up in proffieboard mode automatically. Since the board already comes programmed with the "default_proffieboard_config.h", it should show up as a "proffieboard" the first time you hook it up to your computer. Finally, let me answer your actual question: If the board is in bootloader mode and you want it to go back to "proffieboard" mode, just press the reset button. Sometimes, if a bad program is uploaded, or if the programming is aborted half-way through, the board gets stuck in a reboot loop and does not show up when you plug it into a computer at all. If that happens, you just need to press BOOT+RESET to put the board into bootloader mode (while connected to USB), and it should show up in bootloader mode. Then you can just hit the upload button and everything should be back to normal. I have updated the serial 0 driver to USB serial CDC using Zadig. And is assigned a com port (com6) I set the board as proffie, however the serial monitor showed me a butterfly board with message 'welcome to teensy' I uploaded the sketch (pic attached) however the board won't boot up (no sound) The serial monitor shows messages of "amplifier off" and "low battery beep". - pic attached The actual battery voltageis @98% full (4.17V) The saber cannot boot up.   |
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 9, 2018 21:42:02 GMT -5
You don't need to get the board into proffiboard mode to program it. If the board is in proffieboard mode when you hit upload, Arduino will use the port to tell the board to reboot into bootloader mode. None of that is need if the board is already in bootloader mode. Once the board is programmed, is should boot up in proffieboard mode automatically. Since the board already comes programmed with the "default_proffieboard_config.h", it should show up as a "proffieboard" the first time you hook it up to your computer. Finally, let me answer your actual question: If the board is in bootloader mode and you want it to go back to "proffieboard" mode, just press the reset button. Sometimes, if a bad program is uploaded, or if the programming is aborted half-way through, the board gets stuck in a reboot loop and does not show up when you plug it into a computer at all. If that happens, you just need to press BOOT+RESET to put the board into bootloader mode (while connected to USB), and it should show up in bootloader mode. Then you can just hit the upload button and everything should be back to normal. I have updated the serial 0 driver to USB serial CDC using Zadig. And is assigned a com port (com6) I set the board as proffie, however the serial monitor showed me a butterfly board with message 'welcome to teensy' I uploaded the sketch (pic attached) however the board won't boot up (no sound) The serial monitor shows messages of "amplifier off" and "low battery beep". - pic attached The actual battery voltageis @98% full (4.17V) The saber cannot boot up. The serial monitor says your battery is low. Is your battery connected to GND, BATT- (for -) and BATT+ (for +) ? |
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 9, 2018 21:45:28 GMT -5
I have updated the serial 0 driver to USB serial CDC using Zadig. And is assigned a com port (com6) I set the board as proffie, however the serial monitor showed me a butterfly board with message 'welcome to teensy' I uploaded the sketch (pic attached) however the board won't boot up (no sound) The serial monitor shows messages of "amplifier off" and "low battery beep". - pic attached The actual battery voltageis @98% full (4.17V) The saber cannot boot up. The serial monitor says your battery is low. Is your battery connected to GND, BATT- (for -) and BATT+ (for +) ? Wait... what version of ProffieOS do you have? It should say "welcome to proffieos" nowadays, not "welcome to teensy..." |
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Post by hdjoe22 on Nov 9, 2018 22:37:53 GMT -5
Is there a way to add a sound font without recompiling the software on proffieOS? Trying to think of a bit more consumer friendly way to allow buyers to add a font. Well, they could just name the new font the same as the one they want to replace. It’ll still be addressed in the config so nothing will change! |
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obi6
Recruit
Posts: 41
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Post by obi6 on Nov 9, 2018 23:57:41 GMT -5
I have updated the serial 0 driver to USB serial CDC using Zadig. And is assigned a com port (com6) I set the board as proffie, however the serial monitor showed me a butterfly board with message 'welcome to teensy' I uploaded the sketch (pic attached) however the board won't boot up (no sound) The serial monitor shows messages of "amplifier off" and "low battery beep". - pic attached The actual battery voltageis @98% full (4.17V) The saber cannot boot up. The serial monitor says your battery is low. Is your battery connected to GND, BATT- (for -) and BATT+ (for +) ? The negative from the battery is connected to the recharge port (batt negative prong, 26 AWG) and recharge port is connected to GND (board prong, 26 AWG) and there's a wire connecting GND and BAT- (30AWG). the 2 BAT- are not connected by any wires (because i think the 2 BAT- are internally connected). The battery +ve is connected to BAT+ (26AWG) on the board. The saber will boot up now (using proffie OS 1.284) with sound and light. It works fine for less than 1 minute and then the sound will disappear (amp off?) but light work as usual. Light is working but no sound. |
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 10, 2018 0:17:35 GMT -5
The serial monitor says your battery is low. Is your battery connected to GND, BATT- (for -) and BATT+ (for +) ? The negative from the battery is connected to the recharge port (batt negative prong, 26 AWG) and recharge port is connected to GND (board prong, 26 AWG) and there's a wire connecting GND and BAT- (30AWG). the 2 BAT- are not connected by any wires (because i think the 2 BAT- are internally connected). The battery +ve is connected to BAT+ (26AWG) on the board. The saber will boot up now (using proffie OS 1.284) with sound and light. It works fine for less than 1 minute and then the sound will disappear (amp off?) but light work as usual. Light is working but no sound. If it still says low battery int the serial monitor, use a multimeter and measure the voltage between GND and BATT+. If the multimeter shows battery voltage, but the board says low battery, there is something wrong with the board. (Or possibly a cold solder joint.) |
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Post by nnautt on Nov 10, 2018 0:54:54 GMT -5
Hey Profezzorn, I just finished my Proffie and everything works. I only have 1 very small issue. When stab my saber in the air or do a light smack to my hilt, the clash effect triggers, however if I hit the blade it takes a bit of a hit to trigger the clash.
I basically want to be able to trigger a clash easily with a blade and not as easily with a light smack to the hilt. I can only see one clash threshold in the config. What do you propose?
Do mind you, my saber is very small and everything is very close proximity.
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 10, 2018 1:10:22 GMT -5
Hey Profezzorn, I just finished my Proffie and everything works. I only have 1 very small issue. When stab my saber in the air or do a light smack to my hilt, the clash effect triggers, however if I hit the blade it takes a bit of a hit to trigger the clash. I basically want to be able to trigger a clash easily with a blade and not as easily with a light smack to the hilt. I can only see one clash threshold in the config. What do you propose? Do mind you, my saber is very small and everything is very close proximity. The clash algorithm on the proffie is fairly simple. However I've noticed that it's a bit unpredictable at times, especially when the saber is busy doing a lot of stuff. I think it might be because it's not reading every value out of the motion chip, but I'm not sure. I'm going to have a look and see what I can do about it. Until then, I'm afraid that CLASH_THRESHOLD_G is the only way to adjust the clash threshold. (Unless you want to do some coding yourself.) One easy thing that might help is to select Tools->Optimize->Faster in Arduino. |
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Post by nnautt on Nov 10, 2018 1:23:33 GMT -5
Hey Profezzorn, I just finished my Proffie and everything works. I only have 1 very small issue. When stab my saber in the air or do a light smack to my hilt, the clash effect triggers, however if I hit the blade it takes a bit of a hit to trigger the clash. I basically want to be able to trigger a clash easily with a blade and not as easily with a light smack to the hilt. I can only see one clash threshold in the config. What do you propose? Do mind you, my saber is very small and everything is very close proximity. The clash algorithm on the proffie is fairly simple. However I've noticed that it's a bit unpredictable at times, especially when the saber is busy doing a lot of stuff. I think it might be because it's not reading every value out of the motion chip, but I'm not sure. I'm going to have a look and see what I can do about it. Until then, I'm afraid that CLASH_THRESHOLD_G is the only way to adjust the clash threshold. (Unless you want to do some coding yourself.) One easy thing that might help is to select Tools->Optimize->Faster in Arduino. I thought that may be the case. I still love the Stubbyflex I made, sometimes it just triggers when I don't want it to. I'm still getting used to this new board I also wanted to report a 'bug' I found. If you pay the 'force' effect then switch saber off, then on again, the pixels of the ignition seem to light up in small laggy chunks rather than a smooth effect. |
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Post by profezzorn on Nov 10, 2018 1:31:45 GMT -5
The clash algorithm on the proffie is fairly simple. However I've noticed that it's a bit unpredictable at times, especially when the saber is busy doing a lot of stuff. I think it might be because it's not reading every value out of the motion chip, but I'm not sure. I'm going to have a look and see what I can do about it. Until then, I'm afraid that CLASH_THRESHOLD_G is the only way to adjust the clash threshold. (Unless you want to do some coding yourself.) One easy thing that might help is to select Tools->Optimize->Faster in Arduino. I thought that may be the case. I still love the Stubbyflex I made, sometimes it just triggers when I don't want it to. I'm still getting used to this new board I also wanted to report a 'bug' I found. If you pay the 'force' effect then switch saber off, then on again, the pixels of the ignition seem to light up in small laggy chunks rather than a smooth effect. I'll have to try that, don't let me forget, because I have a 100 board orders to ship first... |
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obi6
Recruit
Posts: 41
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Post by obi6 on Nov 10, 2018 3:29:38 GMT -5
The negative from the battery is connected to the recharge port (batt negative prong, 26 AWG) and recharge port is connected to GND (board prong, 26 AWG) and there's a wire connecting GND and BAT- (30AWG). the 2 BAT- are not connected by any wires (because i think the 2 BAT- are internally connected). The battery +ve is connected to BAT+ (26AWG) on the board. The saber will boot up now (using proffie OS 1.284) with sound and light. It works fine for less than 1 minute and then the sound will disappear (amp off?) but light work as usual. Light is working but no sound. If it still says low battery int the serial monitor, use a multimeter and measure the voltage between GND and BATT+. If the multimeter shows battery voltage, but the board says low battery, there is something wrong with the board. (Or possibly a cold solder joint.) The multimeter showed 4.17V between GND and Batt +, Batt- and Batt + as well. Turns out my speaker was busted, replaced the speaker and the saber is alive with sound now. I had initially wired a switch led to pad led 6, but it didn't seem to light up. I wired it to the speaker pad whilst replacing the speaker and it worked like a charm now. Fredrik, I am really really really really grateful for the support you're providing. Thank you so very much. |
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