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Post by fett263 on Nov 16, 2018 10:31:18 GMT -5
I'm about to start my 2nd Proffieboard build (and 2nd Crossguard build) and wanted to do more of a true step-by-step WIP for this one. This is only my third saber build, but I learned a lot on my Prizm Crossguard & Proffieboard Graflex that I want to bring into this saber. I have a lot of modifications planned for this one, both in the set up but also the finishes and "accuracy". This will be a little trial-and-error along the way as I have a lot of things planned in my head but also have realistic expectations that some may not got 100% as planned (which I've experienced on the other two builds but didn't document as much). This will be a long project, I plan to take it slow and check everything over multiple times, but I'm psyched at the potential end result. I have a lot of "upgrades" planned for this one but I'll cover each one as it "comes to life". For a start point - I am planning to take my "backup battery" plan from my Graflex to the next level for this saber. I'll be using two 2 21700s in this saber with one as primary and the other as backup to extend the running time even more since it's neopixel. They will be controlled using a 3-position (On-Off-On) SPDT switch which will also be the "kill switch" when in the middle position. Since there is no good location for a recharge port/kill key this switch will be the On-Off for power to the board and the toggle between batteries so when the first gets low, I can easily toggle to the 2nd to get double run time. Both batteries will be connected with JST connectors so I can also swap them out during longer events and still get double time. Everything will be accessed through the revel chamber. Since the USB on the Proffieboard needs to accessed for updates, etc. the chassis I'm using will also be accessed through the reveal chamber. I was originally looking at a DPDT switch but it was too large to fit easily in the saber, so I'm going with the 3-position SPDT switch like so:  I've been doing an initial rough fit and it's going to be very tight but so far I'm pretty sure I can make it work, I will be "measuring thrice, cutting once" on this since I know I need to mod a few things to get it all to fit just right. Started out with some measurements to get a rough idea of what I'm working with, the plan will be for the chassis and 28mm bass speaker to be in the bottom portion:  I've already modified a chassis (more on that later), this will hold the Proffieboard and the SPDT switch.  The chassis and speaker (without switch):  The switch will extend a little into the reveal cavity so it can be accessed to turn on the saber and toggle between the batteries:  Here is the initial rough plan/layout - battery - battery - chassis - speaker  The chassis will not be attached to the speaker mount, the speaker mount will be fixed to the base of the inner tube (which will need to be cut once I'm 100% sure of the fit), the chassis will be able to slide up into the reveal chamber by removing the middle battery.  Both batteries will be able to be accessed through the reveal chamber for recharging or swapping, they will be connected with JST connectors to the switch/board. The top one slides in first, then the chassis slides down, then the middle battery is put in.  Next step will be putting the main blade neopixel connector together (hopefully this weekend) so I can make sure there is still enough room for it and to also see how the wiring works with the batteries, particularly the top one, there is room but it's going to be very, very snug with the wiring for the three connectors and switches running the length of the saber. I am planning to use the GX-16 connector like I did on my other sabers, it's a personal choice, the PCB connectors are probably just as good but I'm comfortable with them and like that they only fit one way so I can get everything positioned how I want and repeat everytime. More to come... |
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Post by fett263 on Nov 17, 2018 15:16:33 GMT -5
Got the neopixel connectors wired up so I can test fit all of the wiring. I'm using 3 pin GX-16 connectors with Shtok's connector holders. For the main blade I decided to wire up 3 negatives to make connecting to the board easier, it adds two wires to the mix.  Now for the test fit, I will need to open up the side blades to 7/8 inch, so for now the connectors don't fit in but I'm only testing the wiring.  I do want to make sure the main blade connector is in the position I want though to ensure it will fit with the double batteries.  Next I put in wiring to represent the buttons, still have to determine AUX position, have two ideas but they will depend on space available so for now I just have wires to fill the body with and get an idea of how to run.  Next I insert the top battery, it is very snug and I don't want to force it and kink up the wires.  And here's the first hiccup and the reason I'm testing everything first, with the wires all running along the bottom the battery will be too tight for the button wires to fit through the window, so I'll need to tackle this, probably need to create a notch or channel in the inner tube for the wire to run through, may need to notch the inside of the shroud too.  So that's noted, I move the wire out of the window but keep in the body to account for it with spacing and the battery fits so I'm happy.  Next I pull the wires through the chassis and slide it in, I also include the two JST wires that I'll need for the battery connections, these will take up a little more space than the wires so need to account for them too.  The top battery and main neopixel connector are exactly where I want them.  There's a lot of wires but it's looking like everything will still fit.  2nd battery going in and it fits "like a glove", I did have to lay the JST connector flat.  Next I put the inner ribbed cover on, the battery is sitting just slightly high, it's the JST connector's fault, I might try to have the connectors in the space under the chassis although it's snug now, but I think when I actually wire up the board it will thin out the wiring and give me a little extra room. If not, I may just sand down the inside of this cover a few mm to let it sit flush.  And just to finish it off, the outer cover. Also, just slightly raised where the battery is sitting on the JST connector, but I have two options when I get to the final fit so I'm not concerned.  That's it for today, but so far a few things to address but the overall concept looks like it's viable so I'm excited. |
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Post by Ben Solo on Nov 17, 2018 23:07:25 GMT -5
I love watching your build threads, dude.
This is going to be great!
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Post by fett263 on Nov 18, 2018 7:55:56 GMT -5
I love watching your build threads, dude. This is going to be great! Thanks, yeah I'm having fun thinking through this build, I can totally see why it's so addictive. And I can't wait to see all of the style options with the Proffieboard come to life. |
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Post by darthbrooks on Nov 19, 2018 19:27:18 GMT -5
Thanks for the pic heavy thread... it's motivating to want to learn myself
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Post by fett263 on Nov 20, 2018 10:26:57 GMT -5
Next step, figuring out the Aux button. Going in I had 2 main ideas, neither were going to work as I wanted, so ended up going with a modification to Goth's location. With the second battery there just isn't enough room in the emitter/shroud area for a switch so I am going with a mini momentary switch, like you'd used on the clamp card of a Graflex and I'm mounting it in the hole for the side "buttons".  I had to open up the hole with a dremel cutting bit, did a little at a time, I want a snug fit so the switch can't move down, the hole is actually cut at a slight angle from the inside so I wouldn't damage the outside (the inside got chewed up a bit but nobody will see it) and the angle lets the switch go in but it gets lodged at the height I want it.  I'll be using theProplicator's clear buttons instead of the red ones that come with the Korbanth (eventually they'll be weathered a bit like the reference images).  I will have to sand the button down slightly but it will work nicely, not bad for a third option.  I also dremeled channels into the "fins" on the inside to allow the power and Aux buttons to run. As noted earlier, with the second battery there is no way to pass the wires through the window for the power button so instead I'll be routing the wires from both in the channels. The inside got a bit chewed but it won't be seen so I wasn't too worried.   Then the wires will be routed to the large opening in the inner tube like so. This is only test fitting, I'll need to glue down the wires to keep them in the channels when it comes time to install.  Finally, while working on the shroud I also installed the 3 M3 button head screws. One of the original plans for the Aux button was going to be to use the center or side screw to press a switch, but the center one was much too close to the Power button so I knew I'd end up triggering accidentally, especially with gloves on and the side screws were going to be a royal PITA to install so option C won out.  Here's the reference photo:  That's all for now... |
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Post by fett263 on Nov 23, 2018 7:36:55 GMT -5
I wired up the Power and Aux switches, test fitting/installing both. Luckily, having built first my first CG I already dealt with the headache of the Power switch. If you haven't installed yet let me save you some serious frustration - DO NOT try to install the Power switch BEFORE you attach the shroud to the inner tube. No matter how small the wire or how low you solder it's not going to fit over the tube. Even with the notches in the shroud it still didn't work and the wire gets pinched or ripped as you try to slide the inner tube in. Just save yourself the frustration and anger and install the shroud, then install the Power button from inside the inner tube.  The Aux switch worked like a charm. You'll want to wrap with electrical or heat tape so the solder points don't touch the metal on the inner tube when installed, otherwise it fit in easily, just need to route the wire into the groove I created and keep it in place when sliding the inner tube in.  For the Power switch after several attempts I ended up having to cut a channel into the inner tube from the window to the large opening, this will be to put the wires in place. As noted above, the fit is too tight to try to have the wires in place and then slide the tube in.  For the Aux switch as long as you keep the wire in the grove it slides in no problem. I had to take my time sliding the tube in and pulling the wire in to prevent kinks.  Then I put the Power switch in place and roughly route the wires.  The wires are going to be pushed down by the shroud, so you'll want to "feel" for them from the inside to keep in the cut out channel as best you can, mine still moved but I'm not gluing the switch in now so I can still go back and get the wiring just right. The reason for this is that the battery fits pretty snug here and I need to run the wires to the bottom and it leave no room for the wires to pass through the top window for the Power switch.  I am not gluing the switch in place at this point, I won't do that until everything else is successfully installed, you need a strong glue to hold the switch in place from constant pressing but once you glue it you're not getting the shroud back off without a major headache (I learned that on my first build too) so for now it's just being put in place.  I'm using the KR saber accuracy kit instead of the button cap that comes with the saber, but either way you want to make sure you can add the button cap BEFORE you finally glue the switch in place.  |
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Post by fett263 on Nov 24, 2018 14:19:33 GMT -5
Got a bunch done today, I'm using the 28mm bass speaker so I cut ~7mm off the inner tube with pipe cutter to allow for space.  I'm using Goth's 28mm bass speaker holder for 1.12" ID to mount the speaker. I needed a separate speaker mount that could be static while the rest of the chassis moves for access to the Proffieboard. I had to cut it down to fit as the original length was too much.  For the pommel, I had previously painted the silver ring black with the Tester's Flat Black Enamel for better accuracy and overall look, I painted everything except the threads since the insert will screw in and cover. I sanded lightly and it took a couple of coats but it blends in great now.   Next I installed the Pommel using the included set screw  I'm using the KR Saber accuracy kit clip and screws, I will eventually weather these but I'm installing for now.  Next the speaker goes in, originally I had planned to attach the mount to the inner tube but it actually proved unnecessary once I got everything measured out and rough fit, so for now it's just inserted.   I'm using Goth's Pommel insert in Polished Bronze-Silver Steel. I gave it a light buff and scraped out the excess print material between the details.  The Pommel insert actually holds the speaker in place pretty well, so I may not need to attach, we''ll see.  It looks so much better with the ring painted black now, very happy with it.   |
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Post by fett263 on Nov 25, 2018 12:54:33 GMT -5
I've begun opening up the side ports to 7/8 inch with a dremel sanding drum to accommodate the neopixel holders but it's a slow process because the metal heats up so quickly and I want to get them perfect. More on that later. In the meantime, between sanding to ports, I'm assembling and testing the double battery - 3 position switch set up. I'm using a 3 position SPDT switch (On-Off-On) as both a kill switch (Off) and to toggle between the two 21700 batteries. The white wires will attach to the center pole and connect to the board (-) and GND. I wired up three separate for easier connection to the board.  Next I pulled the two JST connectors for the batteries into the chassis, the negatives from both will connect to the two outer poles on the switch, this will toggle from one to the other so only one is running at any given time (refer to 1st post for wiring diagram).  I'm leaving slack in the JST connectors, need to determine if they'll be tucked into the bottom of the chassis or kept in the reveal cavity under the battery so having a little slack gives me options once all the wiring is in place.  I added some additional electrical tape in addition to the heat wrap on the solder posts since the switch will be very close to the board when all is installed. I won't glue the switch into the chassis until everything is wired up and tested, for now it's just loose.  Next up, I'm testing the switch and connections BEFORE wiring up the board, just to be safe. These are new batteries and I haven't fully charged yet so the voltage is low, but I'm only testing the switch works as expected to cut power and toggle between. I have the battery positives connected to each other and I'm leaving the three board (-) from the center pole of the switch separate and testing individually to confirm everything will run as expected. This also cuts out a variable later should any wiring issues pop up. I'm confirming the batteries and switch all run and the electricity can flow to the board for all three points. When the switch is in the center (OFF) there is no power.  Next the switch is turned to the Left "ON" position and we have power - I tested each of the three white board (-) wires individually.  And the switch in the Right ON position, also tested each white wire individually.  Now that that's all wired up and working I'll keep working on those side ports. The top portion for the emitters is getting the most modifications, so I knew going in it would be the most time consuming, but once it's all done things will be downhill from there on out. I'll probably start building the blades next and work on the side ports and other mods to the top section as I go. Slow and steady but coming along... |
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Post by fett263 on Nov 27, 2018 17:21:55 GMT -5
Progress update - I got one side port opened up to 7/8 inch but ran out of sanding drums on the second so had to order more, ran through a bunch but it's worth it. If you're opening the ports a few recommendations; first make sure you have plenty of sanding drums you're gonna need them. Second, take your time the metal heats up fast, I do a little at a time, take a break and go back at it. Third, if you had the side ports painted (like I did), expect you're going to need to touch up, I already had a few scratches just from handling, but little slips etc are going to happen. So far (knock on wood) it's all fixable, but I'm also very much prepared to needing to repaint as well. Do not try opening the side ports up if you don't want to repaint completely or are afraid of damaging the paint job. Here's the start point:  Next I took a left over piece of 7/8 inch tube from another build and scored a line on the depth I want to achieve. After each little bit I test fit, you want to be able to insert easily but also you don't want to open too big or the blade will be loose, so I continuously check a little at a time. I also find you can feel the high points if you run your finger inside to help determine where to focus the sanding.  The first side is done, here's the end result, yes, lots of touch ups will be needed but I'm not going to bother until I finish all of the mods.  And the test, tube inserted to test, it fits perfectly so we're good on this side. I started the second but need more drums to complete.  While I wait for the sanding drums I went ahead and assembled the neopixels, I'm using the "skinny" types for both the main blade and quillions, the final length will be determined when I insert in the blade I left a few extra pixels on each to give me options, the goal especially on the quillions is to insert as far to the tip as possible so having extra to play with helps. For the data line, I have the 330 ohm resistor wired in the connector for each.  That's it so far. |
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Post by fett263 on Nov 28, 2018 15:02:31 GMT -5
I did another test fit on the upper battery, if you recall I was originally having issues with the Power button wiring not being able to fit through the window cut out in the inner tube with the battery inserted so I created a channel in the shroud and cut out a pathway in the inner tube to allow the wiring to avoid the battery. While I'm waiting to finish opening the 2nd side port to 7/8 inch I decided to put things back together for another fitting and now the battery fits perfectly, it is pretty snug, very little room for anything else and realistically I'm thinking this will probably be left in the hilt at all times and recharged in place. First, I don't really want to be pulling it in and out and second, the lower battery is very easily replaced through the reveal chamber. In a pinch I could still remove the upper battery if necessary, it will still be connected with the JST, it's just going be a more "surgical" removal than the lower battery given how snug it is with all of the wiring.  The battery fits but it's tight so I'm thinking most of the time it'll be left in the hilt and the lower one will be swapped out if both die during a longer event. Still removable, just need to be careful with all of the wiring if I do.   |
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Post by fett263 on Nov 29, 2018 11:28:11 GMT -5
Got a little more prep work done. I'm using the KR saber's wire clips, painting the base black with the Testors flat black so they blend in more accurately. Also, gave the Propicator's button inserts a very thin coat, they still have some translucence like the reference image.  I also began routing the button and power wires in the chassis. I'm not going to hook anything up until I get the neopixel connectors installed to make sure I fit everything and route properly.  For the chassis, as noted earlier I modified ahead of time. I am using Goth's 0.99 ID Proffieboard chassis and the 0.99 ID Press Fit Chassis disc, the press fit disc is glued on the end of the Proffieboard chassis to give the extension needed for the switch. The ID of the tube is slightly larger than 0.99 so the press fit disc doesn't actually hold the chassis so it can slide easily, but with the batteries, etc. installed there is almost no room for it to move. The speaker mount is also pictured, as noted earlier this is Goth's 1.12 ID bass speaker mount, I did cut it down to fit in the base of the hilt.  I should be able to finish opening up the 2nd port this weekend and then it'll be time to put this baby together and test it out. |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 1, 2018 14:16:58 GMT -5
Got a bunch done this morning. First I assembled one of the quillion blades, I'm using theProplicator's unstable blades (PPv2 for 7/8 in diameter). I have slightly changed the diffusion approach from my Prizm build, but it's essentially the same. I did a test fit to get the exact number of pixels I can fit in, for this blade it was 19 on the long side, 18 on the short side, due to the pixels being offset from each other. When positioning I will have the longer side facing up although with the skinny neopixels I haven't really seen a noticeable difference.  I trimmed up the very tip as close as possible to get it in as deep as I can  Then I cut a small piece of diffusion foam to reinforce the base (this doesn't cover any pixels it just helps keep the strip centered in the blade).  Since the ends of the blades are thinner I add an additional wrap of blade film around the last 5 pixels (the length may change since I haven't tested to see the brightness, color, corn-cobbing effect yet). I use a small piece of clear tape to hold it in place, this let's me wrap it very tightly around the strip.  Next I took a 6 inch piece of blade film and also held it with a small piece of clear tape, this piece will cover the entire strip, again the length may change after I test.  Then again, I tightly wrap around the strip, you want it to be as tight as possible to fit into the blade, the length may get adjusted after I test. I use two more small pieces of tape to keep it rolled. The last pixel is extended from the top to let a little more light on the tip to try to light it up a bit more.  Next carefully insert into the blade, if you look the interior is a bit of an oval you want the strip to go in at the wider point it will let you get it a bit deeper, this one I got to about 16 ~ 17mm from the very tip.  Lastly I drill and tap for a set screw to keep the connector attached.  I also finished opening up the 2nd side port to 7/8 inch and test fit the assembled quillion (I'm only building one right now, after it's tested and I get the diffusion figured out I'll build the 2nd one the same way).  In addition, I drilled and tapped the set screw holes for each of the neopixel connectors and the blade retention screws. The main blade screw will be here on the top portion, this actually gets covered by the shroud so it's not seen when it's fully assembled.  Then I drill 4 holes for the side ports, one for the connector one for the blade retention screw (they'll all be set screws)  And finally for the main blade retention screw  I've decided I'll need to just repaint the side ports, I tried touch up but I'm not happy, so I'll be giving it a very light sanding and start the new paint job tomorrow. Once that's done it's time to wire this all up and test it out. |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 3, 2018 10:20:42 GMT -5
Didn't get as far as I wanted, ended up spending most of the weekend on a ladder putting up Christmas lights, but I did sand down the side ports and get two coats of paint on. I had originally had the "weathering" done by Korbanth but the paint on the side ports starting rubbing off with general handling, then opening the ports up to 7/8 it only got worse so I sanded the paint off (which was super easy since it didn't take well anyway) and I'm repainting. I already did this on my Prizm build as well, just a note, the weathering on the main body of the saber is nicely done (which is why I paid the extra $ for it) but the side ports are simply painted over the black and the paint comes away pretty easily so if you get the weathering you might end up needing to redo anyway unless you're super careful handling.  I already have two coats of silver for the base, if I get time later tonight I'll probably need one more coat of the silver before the next color.  I also assembled my main blade, I'll be testing out two different tips, I picked up a 3D printed neopixel bullet tip on Shapeways (I used a 7/8 inch version on my Proffie Graflex). It's hollow so you can get the pixels all the way to the tip. I also ordered the new parabolic hollow tip from TCSS and will see which I like better when I get this all fired up.  The rest of the blade is assembled just like all of the other neopixels I see out there, foam, diffuser and clear tube.    |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 4, 2018 9:20:21 GMT -5
Finished the third coat of silver last night and sprayed one coat of flat black for the side ports this morning to give it the burned away paint look. I'll let that dry completely today before moving on to next step. I'll be doing the rest of the coloring by hand once the saber is completed as part of the final details (although I kinda like this look already).   For the final coats I also inserted the set screws so that they get the same coloring to blend in a bit more.  I also attached the body plate with two of the KR wire holders, I'm using the screw in the body, I'll just need to double check they don't affect the battery positioning, if they do I'll remove and just glue the holders and plate in place, I previously painted the bases of wire holders black so they blend in.  |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 6, 2018 12:49:38 GMT -5
The final piece has arrived! I've been waiting and waiting on gustavo's V5 insert to finish up the emitter mods, truth be told I was holding off until I received it and decided I wanted to use it before doing the final mod but now that I have it I definitely think it's a big improvement. I got the piece printed in steel but it took longer than expected from Shapeways, but worth the wait. If you go this route, definitely do this mod BEFORE painting, I have to repaint a bit because the dremel kicked a few times and scratched things up so you can learn from my example.  You will need to trim the insert a bit on both sides, I used a cutting disc and just went very slowly to keep the line straight, I saw a few guys on FB hack the hell out of it, so take your time, a little patience goes a long way (says the guy who painted before finishing his dremel work  ).  Then it'll be a bunch of sanding, I used the same sanding drums as I did for the side ports since I have a bag full of them, In parts I also used the dremel cutting bit as well, just a little at a time and kept test fitting every little bit. I ended up taking a bit of material off but do it in small bits so you don't over do it  And the final test fit, here's roughly the result, I will be able to slide the insert up a tad more, I took a little bit more off the inside to fit it after this pic was snapped.  Now I just started the repaint, for the area under the insert, since it will be partially visible I painted the same silver as the port tips, I may give the insert a spray also but I want this coat to dry and see how it looks first. I like the steel look but it's a bit darker than the reference images so it might need a coat of paint. Still undecided.  I will need another coat of the silver and then I have to respray some black where the dremel nickd up my paint, so a couple painting sessions in store. I'm really, really hoping it's done and dry by Saturday because I have to travel this coming week, leaving on Sunday morning and I'm sure anyone following is just as excited to see this all come together- I am trying, really, really trying but I also do not want to rush it. In the meantime, I also came up with another "fix". Originally, I was going to glue the speaker mount in place, then I was going to use the pommel insert to hold it, but I read a few guys had sound distortion from the speaker vibrating against the insert. So while looking it all over I actually found a super simple fix. The bottom most mounting hole for the belt clip goes all the way through the body but the screws only go half way, so I got the short set screw and put it into the hole to hold the speaker mount in place.  It now holds the speaker mount in place and can me removed if needed  And it's short enough that the screw for the belt clip still fits with no issue  |
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Post by warlock on Dec 6, 2018 17:44:37 GMT -5
This really makes me wanna get a Crossguard. Brilliant work man  |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 7, 2018 16:43:38 GMT -5
I was able to do the finally assembly and prep for wiring up to the board. Putting everything together one last time, I decided to test everything out one last time and I'm glad I did - a minor hiccup that would have been a PITA had I started hooking up already wasn't too bad and easily rectified. Started by inserting the neopixel connectors for the quillions, one at a time and positioned how I wanted them.   Pulled the wires through and positioned the gash insert (I ended up hitting with a coat of silver to brighten up), when the time comes to finish the weathering and final details I will be working on perfecting the color. Then I feed the wires and position the top portion onto the saber.  I actually put it all together and inserted the upper battery and ran into the first "hiccup". The set screw for the main blade connector was actually too low and must not have locked the connector in place so when I pushed the battery up it moved the connector. Not a big deal all things considered I slid the top portion up a little and then drilled and tapped a higher location for the set screw, it will still be hidden by the shroud, but the original location didn't work.  It actually took multiple tries to get the battery right where I wanted and have the connector get locked in, I would slide the top piece down, see where the battery fit, then pull it up a little loosen the set screw and move the connector up and down slightly There is literally no extra room with everything inserted so getting it "just right" took a bunch of tries. Once it was perfect I locked the top portion into the shroud with the set screws provided. The set screw for the connector is still hidden once the top portion slides down so all good.  The connector is slightly higher than I started but I needed to get the battery in position.  Another change, I had to make was expected and easy but the inner screws for the wire holders in the main body were preventing the battery and chassis from moving into their final positions so I removed. Once everything is tested the back plate will get glued along with the wire holders. Kinda thought that would be the case but putting it together just proved it.  The battery is really snug, this will most likely be it's permanent home to avoid messing with the wires, I did wrap a sleeve of heat wrap (without shrinking it) over all of the neopixel wires to keep them bunched up and let the battery slide into the chamber easier but I had to get the wires from all 3 connectors in position on one side of the inner tube to get the battery all the way inserted, it took a while and is not something I'll be doing at an event. The battery will be charged in place by disconnecting the JST connector so not a big deal. ![]()  Just to finish everything off I connected all of the blades to make sure there's no issues, etc. I will be adding theProplicator's main blade sleeve once the main blade is tested and I finalized it's positioning.  The plan is to begin hooking up the board tomorrow morning, but I have limited time so any more hiccups or issues and it'll have to wait until I get back from vacation. I have already programmed the Proffieboard and prepped the SD card, but there are a LOT of wires to connect and it's a tight fit in the chassis so I plan to be very diligent in the process. Getting closer and closer but it still feels like there's a lot left to do... |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 8, 2018 8:52:37 GMT -5
I began hooking the board up but it was taking longer than expected so rather than rush and screw something up I'll finish when I get back. I did read that it's helpful to clean the pads on the Proffieboard with isopropyl but I didn't have any handy so I'll pick some up. I was having some trouble getting the solder to take and marked it up to the universe telling me not to rush, but I think cleaning the pads is probably the issue. So I'll come back at it with a rested mind, no time crunch and some isopropyl.
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Post by fett263 on Dec 17, 2018 13:47:29 GMT -5
"She may not look like much (yet), but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself". Got back from a long, expensive vacation and got everything wired up, I did clear the pads with isopropyl, and things went much easier. I tried rushing through the morning before I left to crank it out and nothing was going right so I just took a break. Much simpler with a clear head and no time crunch. One thing to keep in mind is to keep the wire lengths longer to allow the chassis to be able to make it in and out and give yourself some slack for wire it up, it's a tight fit in the chassis with all the wires. Another pointer, wire the speaker last, this gives you more room and freedom to wire everything else up. Since everything but the speakers wires from the top down get it all wired up, then feed the speaker wires up from the bottom to finish it off. The next trick is going to be carefully taking up the slack into the bottom of the chassis to clear up some space in the body for the 2nd battery. I have a feeling that will be a tedious under taking, but I'm psyched it's all running beautifully, so I'll take the current victory.   I also tested two tips, the first is a 3D printed tip and the 2nd is the TCSS new hollow neopixel tip. The new TCSS tip looks better so far, I will have to trim a little off the diffusion sleeve, the base of the TCSS tip is just a tad longer so I need to be 100% sure before it's finalized, but initially it's looking brighter. First, 3D printed tip:  And the new TCSS neopixel tip:  |
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Post by darthbrooks on Dec 17, 2018 18:07:09 GMT -5
C'mon man! I thought you said this would be "pic heavy"! Lol😂🤣😅😆
Great job... nice video
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Post by fett263 on Dec 18, 2018 21:17:47 GMT -5
Clean up the wires as best I could, not pretty but this is only my third saber and I'm more about function but I know other guys have their wires look all neat and clean and professional looking, mine will not be confused with a professional but they work so I'm happy with them. Plus, from a character point of view Kylo definitely takes after his dad and there are all kinds of wires everywhere on the Falcon, so I'm just following canon ;-)  I also mounted and glued the switch into the chassis, I cut out a small piece of plastic from and old dvd case and used it as a backer for the switch to give me more surface area to glue to.  Next up is the body plates, I actually spent a lot of time on my first build testing out hinges and such for the reveal section but nothing worked so I ended up going to the tried and true solution - DUCT TAPE, and I'm doing it again for this build. I actually just use a piece of black duct tape to join the two plates into a clamshell. Where the "hing" is, I have a thin strip of black electrical tape facing out so the seam isn't visible. It actually works great, and again since the theme of this post is - it ain't pretty but it's functional here it is.  I glued the back plate in place and need to wait for it to set completely, but once it does it works great, there's enough flexibility in the tape to manuever the cover but having one side fixed the reveal cover actually stays closed pretty well even with the few magnets.   I also got the 2nd battery put in place, unfortunately it sits a little high on the bottom side I'll need to create a cut out on the inner silver cover or omit it, but it fits in there and the top portion is a nice fit and holds the battery in place to prevent it from trying to drop out.  It is very tight, and with my fat fingers I am not actually toggling the switch with my fingers, I kinda knew this going in, but since I need the allen wrench for the blade set screws, it will also double as the switch toggle, it works like a charm.  I'm letting the back plate glue take overnight and then tomorrow I'll start looking at the wire clips, red wire and blue wires, etc. |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 19, 2018 16:50:11 GMT -5
Next up, the wire holder, red wire and blue wires. I'm using KR Sabers accuracy kit parts for all three. In order to help secure the red wire I stripped a little of the insulation off the tip and bent the wire into a hook that will slip into the space between the shroud and insert.  Then I'm starting from the top down, so I glued the uppermost wire holder in place as well as the 2nd and I have the 2nd currently screwed in the chamber, just to keep it in place, the inner screw will be removed after the glue is all set up. As noted earlier the screws inside the chamber were interfering with the fit so I'm not keeping.  I let the glue set up on the top two wire holders for half a day, then I moved onto the lower two. I once again screwed the third in from inside the chamber to hold in place but will be removing the inner screw once it's all set up. Just a note the accurate red wire is very rigid to I found it best to shape it ahead of time, particularly the turn into the pommel, just be sure you thread the wire holders on before you bend or it's a lot harder to slip them on.  Up next the blue wires for the gash insert, I cut them to size leaving a little extra to be tucked in to the space above and below. I am using a very small piece of clear double sided tape at the top to secure, the fit into the shroud is tight enough to prevent them from falling out, I used tweezers to position and tuck in but the tape gives just a little more security.  I still have a lot of weathering/painting to finish but it's coming together and starting to look like the real deal.  I also took a look at the diffusion on the quillions and I ended up leaving it alone. There is a slight bit of corn-cobbing on the side where teh strip is closer to the edge of the blade but I just rotated that side to face down on both of the quillions and it's only noticeable if you get really close and the saber is upside down. From all other angles and any distance besides "in your face" they look great.  I also decided to stick with the new TCSS neopixel tip, it looks great, nice and bright and matches the rest of the blade nicely (and no more trying to drill out the tip myself).  Finally, I installed thePropilcator's main blade sleeve to finish it off.  The end result so far, I'm going to play around with the main style a bit more, want to see how different color combos while creating the unstable effects look. I also have to start working on the weathering and paint update, will be doing a little at a time, particularly on the side blade ports.  |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 20, 2018 15:35:56 GMT -5
I made an "on-the-fly" modification to the design that definitely would have been easier had I thought of it earlier. In testing things out I just wasn't happy with the switch location, it was too tight against the battery and a general PITA to toggle and it needed to be easier. So I just decided to fix it. If you're building DEFINITELY do this modification like first thing. Anyway, I decided to turn the switch 90 degrees, so I cut out a notch in the inner tube (which was much more harrowing and stressful with all of the electronics installed and wires everywhere. So it's definitely not pretty but it's so much more functional now.  Then I cut a notch into the chassis to let the switch face up - it's not secured yet it's press fitting into the notch in the chassis and the inner tube and it pretty stable anyway but eventually I'll secure it to the chassis I'm sure.  Now there's a little more room for the battery and more importantly it's 1000x easier to toggle the switch, especially with gloves on when in costume. Definitely should have thought of this earlier but I'm much happier with it.  The battery is sitting high in the chamber currently, but that's partially because I had to pull out as much slack as possible to keep the chassis, board and wires away from the grinding tool while I cut. I had a few tiny slips and just about gave myself a heart attack each time. I was smart enough to hold a small metal board against the wires and chassis as a backstop, but it still makes your heart jump when the tool slips and you envision all your wires or your board getting cut. I'll work on reorganizing the wires and still have to figure out what to do with the inner cover, I'll still need to notch it out because of the JST connectors or just skip it and get some extra magnets on the outer cover to give it a stronger closing force. I'll play around a bit with it all and see which direction to go, but wanted to share this new modification with everyone. |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 21, 2018 15:27:05 GMT -5
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Post by fett263 on Dec 21, 2018 19:50:54 GMT -5
Video of some styles so far:
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Post by fett263 on Dec 25, 2018 14:55:37 GMT -5
Been doing a lot of testing for unstable styles for Kylo, starting to narrow down. I've been looking for a style that looks good in person and also in still pics for events. I wanted the look of the fire blade but wanted to have the retraction of the blade be towards the hilt, I also wanted to minimize the black spots in the blade in still pics but keep the unstable look and fluctuations in the blade. I know a lot of guys have their own so I took a look at those for inspiration but played around with my own combinations. Here's what I've come up with so far, but every day I play on the Style Editor to see what else I can do, so who knows if I'll ever be satisfied.
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Post by fett263 on Dec 27, 2018 9:57:30 GMT -5
I did a couple of functional mods to help keep the reveal chamber cover and battery in place better. Unfortunately, once everything was wired up I could not get the JST connectors into the bottom section of the chassis as originally planned so the 2nd battery in the reveal chamber is sitting too high for the inner silver cover. So I decided to cut off one of the magnet strips and use it to secure the outer cover more securely. First, I cut the cover.  Then I positioned the cut strip on the side magnets and used double sided tape to attach to the outer cover in the correct position. From there I'm just using a little bit of the Gorilla Glue to reinforce. I also added a zip tie (loose enough to slip the battery out for changing) to help keep the battery in the chamber, it's usually the weight of the battery that causes the cover to open, now with the battery secured and the additional magnet strip I can swing the saber without holding the cover and it still stays closed (one side is already secured with the duct tape "hinge").  Now the cover stays closed and flush very nicely no matter the orientation.  |
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Post by fett263 on Dec 28, 2018 14:51:00 GMT -5
After some feedback and more testing here's my favorite style, it's a slight variation on Style 2 (which was most popular) from my last tests. It looks really good in person (it washes out a little in the video) and it also photographs nicely. Also, showing the clash, blast and lockup along with Smoothswing (using KSith's font). And some pics:    Here's the style for anyone interested: StylePtr<InOutHelper<Lockup<Blast<BrownNoiseFlicker<StyleFire<SimpleClash<Red,White,80>,Rgb<30,0,0>,1,3>,RandomPerLEDFlicker<Rgb<50,0,0>,RandomPerLEDFlicker<Red,Rgb<100,0,0>>>,50>,White>,RandomPerLEDFlicker<Red,White>>, 150, 500, Black>>(), StylePtr<IgnitionDelay<600,InOutHelper<Lockup<Blast<BrownNoiseFlicker<SimpleClash<RandomPerLEDFlicker<Red,Rgb<100,0,0>>,White,80>,RandomPerLEDFlicker<Black,Rgb<120,0,0>>,50>,White>,RandomPerLEDFlicker<Red,White>>, 150, 500, Black>>>(), StylePtr<IgnitionDelay<600,InOutHelper<Lockup<Blast<BrownNoiseFlicker<SimpleClash<RandomPerLEDFlicker<Red,Rgb<100,0,0>>,White,80>,RandomPerLEDFlicker<Black,Rgb<120,0,0>>,50>,White>,RandomPerLEDFlicker<Red,White>>, 150, 500, Black>>>(), |
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Post by fett263 on Jan 3, 2019 7:06:23 GMT -5
Here's the part list and other useful info for those looking into a similar build. Korbanth Crossguard 2.0 saber Proffieboard v1.5 (with SD Card for fonts) - a little harder to find right now but if you search you may find on various stores/ Etsy, etc. or look for future runs on TRA forum. KR Sabers and other places are restocking I believe, last I looked they were out of stock. You may come across some individuals offering as well on FB or through Etsy as they become available. There will probably be another run on TRA in the near future I'd believe so worth signing up and keeping an eye (links below under Reference). Neopixels - I use the skinny type, you'll need at least three 1m strips (more if you want backup). You can look around, I got these on Amazon- XUNATA Addressable LED Strip Rope Lights Pixel SK6812 Mini 3535 144LEDs/m(1M, Non-Waterproof IP21) www.amazon.com/dp/B072M6S6NW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1NxlCb7X6VJSMShapeways parts - Chassis parts: 1. www.shapeways.com/product/X9FDQ3TUQ/gcm099-proffieboard-soundboards-chassis?optionId=695994912. www.shapeways.com/product/VAZS2PAAR/gcm099-press-fit-chassis-disk?optionId=632898343. www.shapeways.com/product/XN78KT82G/gcm111-03-03-28mm-bass-speaker-holder?optionId=55584004&li=ostatusNeopixel connectors (I used the GX-16 aviation connector types - the actual connectors can be found easily on Amazon or eBay or you can use PCB or other connectors for neopixel as well) = www.shapeways.com/shops/shtokyd?section=Neopixel%2FLED+Connectors+Holders&s=0 - you'll need to select type and size, I used 1 inch GX-16 for main and opened side ports to 7/8 inch. You need the hilt side and blade side for each blade. Emitter Insert (if you want metal you can download the .STL file and upload for a custom build like I did, select "Download Product" from bottom section on Desktop view- Gucabe made this downloadable) = www.shapeways.com/product/C44QZ3QWZ/kr-emitter-cutout-v5?optionId=58648808&li=marketplacePommel Insert (in metal) = www.shapeways.com/product/QQPERS2HW/korbanth-crossguard-2-0-pommel-insert?optionId=65814153&li=ostatusGreebles = www.shapeways.com/product/RUKZDKUS4/clear-front-greeblies-for-korbanth-crossguard-2-0?optionId=65547153&li=ostatusTCSS parts - 28 mm bass speaker 1 inch clear thin blade diffusion film for 1 inch thin blade neopixel foam for 1 inch thin blade hollow neopixel tip (white) Blade film for 7/8 inch blade (I got double wrap type - this is used in the quillions to diffuse neopixels) (3) 330 ohm resistors (one per blade for data line) (2) JST connector female (for battery connections) - you'll need two if you're doing the double battery set up KR Sabers parts - Korbanth Accuracy Upgrade Kit (wire holders, red wire, blue wire, main button, saber clip) (2) 21700 PCB protected batteries (or more if you want backups, the batteries last about an hour of continuous use on a full charge in my experience so you'll want to have backups for long events) Etsy parts - Unstable blades and sleeve = www.etsy.com/listing/614611845/unstable-blade-set-1-main-sleeve-2?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=unstable+blade&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&bes=1Additional electronics - AUX switch = www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mountain-Switch/101-TS4311T1601-EV?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgGjVA3toVBHVb%2f41oZGWlfjE497o3b4A%3dSPDT ON-OFF-ON switch for dual battery/kill switch = www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ck-switches/1103m1s3zqe2/?qs=f0kRzIUjOgCEv3NaBRDnIw%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USDAdditional parts - 22, 26, 30 AWG (see Proffieboard connection/user guide) Paints, etc. |
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