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Post by fett263 on Apr 2, 2019 17:30:31 GMT -5
Starting my next build, I was able to pick up an extra Proffieboard from KR Sabers so I'll be putting this together as I get time. I plan to use the 1-button mod from Dmitry and The Negotiator font from Fourze. I actually picked up the parts a while back but was stuck on how to add an AUX, then seeing Dmitry's thread on going to 1 button at the same time KR got the Proffies back in stock it all came together. I'm using Goth's Padawan chassis, I already wired up the recharge port and kill switch with the battery and began running the wires for the neopixel connector. This saber is just to add to my collection, so no bells and whistles or modifications, just a straightforward build so it should be pretty quick and painless (knock on wood).  I also wired up the switch and inserted in the hilt  I tested the recharge port and kill switch already to make sure it's all wired up correctly. Next I plan to wire up the neopixel connector and speaker in preparation for the board, which should be arriving by the end of the week. |
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Post by darthbrooks on Apr 2, 2019 19:10:15 GMT -5
Love me an OWK! Love me a proffie! The coolest saber I've had thus far was an OWK with a Teensy v2-3.2 (thus far😉)
Looking forward to seeing the build
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Post by dayadjocen on Apr 2, 2019 20:04:47 GMT -5
Yeah I have found that, absent good 21700 chassis for the most part, the easiest to transform INTO 21700 holders are the 18650 keystones. But yeah, some surgery required.
Curious how you did your leads to and from the battery? Did you solder right on to the posts or did you fashion tabs from the looks of it? Can I get a close up of your battery housing?
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Post by fett263 on Apr 2, 2019 21:10:16 GMT -5
Yeah I have found that, absent good 21700 chassis for the most part, the easiest to transform INTO 21700 holders are the 18650 keystones. But yeah, some surgery required. Curious how you did your leads to and from the battery? Did you solder right on to the posts or did you fashion tabs from the looks of it? Can I get a close up of your battery housing? Here you go, this one will just have an 18650, it is the regular JST connector type. This is more for show than extended use so I wasn't worried about swapping the battery so it will be recharged through the port. Here's a link to the chassis I'm using: www.shapeways.com/product/L4HBLTEYF/korbanth-parks-owk-padawan-all-in-one-var2?optionId=63703890  |
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Post by fett263 on Apr 4, 2019 19:15:50 GMT -5
I got a little more done on this build. I wired up the neopixel connector I'm using a 3 pin GX-16 just like my Graflex and MPP to share blades. I also wired up and installed the speaker. I'm trying out the 20mm TCS WOWspeaker on this saber.   I also tapped a hole for the set screw to hold the blade.  I'll be using an M4 screw, it actually blends in nicely to barely be visible.  And I inserted the neopixel connector into the top of the hilt and test fit the blade.   And look what arrived today, I'll be programming and installing tomorrow night for sure.  |
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Post by fett263 on Apr 5, 2019 19:14:10 GMT -5
Got the Proffie installed.  Even though I've installed a few I still have to close my eyes and hold my breath for the very first light up, luckily it turned on right away and that little bit of fear is extinguished by the bright light of success.  And of course a video: Happy that everything worked I went ahead and inserted the chassis in the main body of the hilt. Once fully assembled the Recharge port and Kill Switch will be accessed from the bottom of the hilt by removing the pommel so I carefully inserted the chassis in from the top and worked it down.  In order to keep the wires from becoming pinched or over-twisted when I screw the hilt together I pulled the chassis all the way out the bottom before screwing, then as I screwed the parts together I rotated the chassis internally to prevent too much tension on the wires.    Once fully tightened I push the chassis in the rest of the way, but leave it sticking out enough to be able to grab, you don't want to push in flush (the pommel will cover the rest) otherwise you'll need to unscrew the main body to get the chassis back out since it's a pretty snug fit.  And finally I screw on the pommel to make sure it all fits correctly.  And of course one more test to make sure nothing bad happened during assembly.  All that's left is the small parts, I want to beat up on the saber and run it a few times before gluing the final parts on, just to be safe. But it already looks pretty nice if I do say so myself. |
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Post by darthbrooks on Apr 5, 2019 19:54:35 GMT -5
Looking gorgeous my friend! Love me an OWK
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Post by fett263 on Apr 5, 2019 20:10:30 GMT -5
Thanks, yeah it's a nice looking hilt, a nice addition to my collection.
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Post by Jediseth on Apr 5, 2019 20:34:30 GMT -5
Looks great! How do you like the 20mm wow speaker? I’ve been using 24mm SE speakers and I’m wondering how it compares. I wish they made a 24mm.
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Post by fett263 on Apr 5, 2019 20:46:52 GMT -5
It's sounds good so far much quieter than the 28mm, but to be fair all of my other builds have all used the 28mm bass or 28mm WOWspeaker so I don't have anything else to go by. It's not bad though considering how much smaller it is.
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Post by fett263 on Apr 7, 2019 10:28:56 GMT -5
Put the finishing touches on this morning, it's all running nicely. I just need to practice the press and twist for force effects. I glued the main button on.  I trimmed the led inserts for the greebles and glued everything in.    Quick Demo: |
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Post by fett263 on Apr 11, 2019 15:03:58 GMT -5
Localized Lockup effect for OWK - TPM:
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Apologies for being M.I.A I'm ok if my master is wondering.