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Post by Solo's Hold on Dec 24, 2019 8:30:25 GMT -5
I have been down for the count with the flu for some days, just tuning in now. Bobofett, you are welcome to call or send a message if you need any support or assistance. You may have a small burr in the shroud where the threads are cut, I keep the tolerances on my parts to the 0.001 of an inch.
Merry Xmas guys, I am doing my best to catch up on correspondence and other things this morning. I pray none of you guys get the virus going around, and I have not set foot in the shop to make sure no one else gets it, if it was even in the realm of a possibility.
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Post by silantstrike on Jan 5, 2020 12:14:06 GMT -5
Quick question for the group! I'm new to the world of sabers, and will be using these as static props for the time being, so trying to put them together myself. Is anyone else having trouble getting the 6/32 buttonhead screws through the shroud and chassis for the covertech and rear stack? The screws are going through the chassis and shroud threads individually, but my theory is that the threads perhaps do not align perfectly when trying to run it through both parts aligned. It will go through the shroud but when it reaches the chassis, it will not go through the rest of the way. Afraid to force it for fear of ruining the threads. I had this issue on both sabers in all 4 locations. I watched the video several times diligently to make sure I'm using the right screws in the proper locations. Just curious if anyone else has had this issue or has any advice! Thanks! I'm having the same issue with the small, the large lined up ok. I'm going to sand down the bottom of the black insert slightly so it will align properly. <style></style> |
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Post by silantstrike on Jan 5, 2020 12:15:22 GMT -5
However on the large, the assembly video does not show how to attach the bunny ears to the large. Is the intention to adhere them with an epoxy, like e6000? I don't believe these need to ever be removed, even to remove the inner black tube, can something stronger be used to adhere it ?
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Post by Obi-Shane on Jan 5, 2020 16:27:17 GMT -5
However on the large, the assembly video does not show how to attach the bunny ears to the large. Is the intention to adhere them with an epoxy, like e6000? I don't believe these need to ever be removed, even to remove the inner black tube, can something stronger be used to adhere it ? Yes, I use loctite 648. The green colored liquid. 72hrs for max hold, I think it was. You'll want to apply some pressure during curing. I use thick rubber bands. Wipe the surfaces with acetone and you'll get a good solid bonding. And yes, you're correct. These don't ever need to be removed so you could even braze them on if you've got experience doing that. |
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Post by silantstrike on Jan 5, 2020 19:35:57 GMT -5
However on the large, the assembly video does not show how to attach the bunny ears to the large. Is the intention to adhere them with an epoxy, like e6000? I don't believe these need to ever be removed, even to remove the inner black tube, can something stronger be used to adhere it ? Yes, I use loctite 648. The green colored liquid. 72hrs for max hold, I think it was. You'll want to apply some pressure during curing. I use thick rubber bands. Wipe the surfaces with acetone and you'll get a good solid bonding. And yes, you're correct. These don't ever need to be removed so you could even braze them on if you've got experience doing that. hmm i have loctite 603, think that would work? Or should I order some 648? I have never brazed before <style></style><style></style> |
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Post by ubermick on Jan 8, 2020 17:34:40 GMT -5
Christ on a bike. I was planning on buying these once I got some more experience under my belt, having only done a VERY basic MHS NB4 build before - but a set showed up on ebay of all places, I had some gift cards and whatnot, so snagged them. They just arrived and the build is going to be... interesting!
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Post by Obi-Shane on Jan 8, 2020 18:46:28 GMT -5
Yes, I use loctite 648. The green colored liquid. 72hrs for max hold, I think it was. You'll want to apply some pressure during curing. I use thick rubber bands. Wipe the surfaces with acetone and you'll get a good solid bonding. And yes, you're correct. These don't ever need to be removed so you could even braze them on if you've got experience doing that. hmm i have loctite 603, think that would work? Or should I order some 648? I have never brazed before <style></style><style></style> I don't know off the top of my head. I might recommend just using 648 since I know it's pretty good. Christ on a bike. I was planning on buying these once I got some more experience under my belt, having only done a VERY basic MHS NB4 build before - but a set showed up on ebay of all places, I had some gift cards and whatnot, so snagged them. They just arrived and the build is going to be... interesting! Hopefully it's not missing any greeblies. Aaron's had lot's of people contact him that have purchased second hand kits with several screws, or other parts missing. |
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Post by ubermick on Jan 8, 2020 22:23:11 GMT -5
Hopefully it's not missing any greeblies. Aaron's had lot's of people contact him that have purchased second hand kits with several screws, or other parts missing. I'd likely expect it. And looking at the video, think I have a first run, as opposed to the 2019. Guess I won't know until I get started on it, and won't know that until I build the chassis.
Speaking of which, the better option would be to use the purpose-made Goth-3D chassis but are there any other options? (I do have a Prusa 3D printer myself)
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Post by Obi-Shane on Jan 9, 2020 1:47:40 GMT -5
Hopefully it's not missing any greeblies. Aaron's had lot's of people contact him that have purchased second hand kits with several screws, or other parts missing. I'd likely expect it. And looking at the video, think I have a first run, as opposed to the 2019. Guess I won't know until I get started on it, and won't know that until I build the chassis.
Speaking of which, the better option would be to use the purpose-made Goth-3D chassis but are there any other options? (I do have a Prusa 3D printer myself)
I'm not too sure. I know Ryo has done some eco chassis for Korbanth's half of the run, but as far as I know that is for their own installs. I have no idea of there is any source for just the files. What I can tell you is that the internal diameter is a hair over 1". and the builds are pretty tight. |
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Post by businessformal on Jan 24, 2020 4:20:34 GMT -5
For anyone not on Facebook, here are some photos from my Korbanth installed sabers. Apparently I was the only one requesting them weathered, and the hilts came out beautifully. imgur.com/a/20t1BPO |
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Post by smackteo on Jan 24, 2020 22:28:13 GMT -5
For anyone not on Facebook, here are some photos from my Korbanth installed sabers. Apparently I was the only one requesting them weathered, and the hilts came out beautifully. imgur.com/a/20t1BPOYeah that’s gorgeous. I wish I could’ve afforded to sign up for this run haha. College life. |
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Post by Solo's Hold on Jan 25, 2020 7:20:49 GMT -5
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Post by koonfasa on Feb 5, 2020 7:50:42 GMT -5
Check it!   They’re fantastic! Thanks guys!!! A couple quick questions. 1) I keep unscrewing that little brass fake button while I’m swinging them. If I wanted a temporary glue them down, what should I use? 2) Probably should ask Korbanth or in a Proffieboard thread and I’ve yet to catch up but is it safe to switch the different length blades? Or switch with the VV ones which I’ve handled a bit. I don’t really want to scratch up these new blades too much. That Smoothswing thing is delicious! |
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Post by Solo's Hold on Feb 5, 2020 8:45:29 GMT -5
its copper, but you can use just a tiny dab of rubber cement under it. I mean just a tiny bit, this will allow you to remove it easily still later.
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eli
Pilot
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Post by eli on Feb 9, 2020 19:26:30 GMT -5
For anyone not on Facebook, here are some photos from my Korbanth installed sabers. Apparently I was the only one requesting them weathered, and the hilts came out beautifully. imgur.com/a/20t1BPOThey came out great. Are both installed with neopixel? |
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Post by Guylo Ren on Feb 16, 2020 17:26:01 GMT -5
However on the large, the assembly video does not show how to attach the bunny ears to the large. Is the intention to adhere them with an epoxy, like e6000? I don't believe these need to ever be removed, even to remove the inner black tube, can something stronger be used to adhere it ? Yes, I use loctite 648. The green colored liquid. 72hrs for max hold, I think it was. You'll want to apply some pressure during curing. I use thick rubber bands. Wipe the surfaces with acetone and you'll get a good solid bonding. And yes, you're correct. These don't ever need to be removed so you could even braze them on if you've got experience doing that. Guys,some emergency advice please.I bought the installed versions through Korbanth & with an unlucky knock,one bunny ear came off.Have tried the above Loctite 648 solution & no joy- cleaned both surfaces with acetone prior to application,used the Loctite,applied heavy rubber bands for pressure.But 72 hours later,the bunny ear & hilt still part company with ease,& it appears the Loctite hadn't even begun to set- wiped it off both surfaces,still wet. Hadn't used an excessive amount at all,& the hilt's been undisturbed since the attempted fix... what am I missing? Please help,this set was for my girlfriend,they're her unicorn sabers,& the damage was my fault! 😣 |
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Post by Obi-Shane on Feb 17, 2020 0:39:31 GMT -5
Yes, I use loctite 648. The green colored liquid. 72hrs for max hold, I think it was. You'll want to apply some pressure during curing. I use thick rubber bands. Wipe the surfaces with acetone and you'll get a good solid bonding. And yes, you're correct. These don't ever need to be removed so you could even braze them on if you've got experience doing that. Guys,some emergency advice please.I bought the installed versions through Korbanth & with an unlucky knock,one bunny ear came off.Have tried the above Loctite 648 solution & no joy- cleaned both surfaces with acetone prior to application,used the Loctite,applied heavy rubber bands for pressure.But 72 hours later,the bunny ear & hilt still part company with ease,& it appears the Loctite hadn't even begun to set- wiped it off both surfaces,still wet. Hadn't used an excessive amount at all,& the hilt's been undisturbed since the attempted fix... what am I missing? Please help,this set was for my girlfriend,they're her unicorn sabers,& the damage was my fault! 😣 That's really weird. Other then the locktite being some bunk knock off version or expired in some way the only thing I can think of is your surfaces didn't get clean enough. Sounds strange even as i type it that glue can expire but i remember some e6000 I had that just wouldn't work after having it some years. Unsure about super glues tho. Give it a very good cleaning one more time, check for residual glue residue and remove it, a razor knife used carefully is very effective this way. Avoid scratching up the surface of the hilt. Apply the green locktite to both surfaces and press it on, then use the thick rubber band method as pressure. Then grab a cotton Q tip and some rubbing alcohol and clean up the excess around the edges that gets squished out. Also make sure you are letting it sit in room temperature and not in a cold garage or workshop. Keep me posted. |
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Post by Guylo Ren on Feb 17, 2020 14:07:15 GMT -5
Cheers,Obi-Shane.By consensus at this end we're already trying a second attempt as you specify,so will see if it's worked in a couple of days.
Incidentally- bought the 648 new from Ebay,but having now checked the outside of the bottle found a 10/14 on the bottom,which suggests it is indeed expired,but plenty of Loctite reviews claim 20-year-old bottles still work... The bottle looks a genuine one,smells like every Loctite does,so I dunno.
Have also been recommended epoxy (specifically Araldite) by several folk,& an engineer at work even said superglue would be better for the purpose- we do actually use one that glues resin RFID chips into steel karabiners,it's a Loctite too (485,I think),so if the 648 doesn't hold this time will try one of those instead.
If nothing else,my calamity serves as a useful saber adhesive research article,I suppose.😞
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Post by Guylo Ren on Feb 19, 2020 15:06:55 GMT -5
So,update on the Ahsoka repair...  ...it appears we have success!😃 Cheers for the advice,Obi-Shane,the Loctite seems to be holding on second attempt! Used a double dose of big rubber bands this time,but I had also already risked a careful Scotchbrite scuffing of the surfaces to be adhered (prior to your reply) to provide a key for stickage,& whichever factor has worked the bunny ear now seems immovable. Balance is now restored to this beautiful set of hilts,a huge thank you to Solo's Hold for this run- fine,fine work under very difficult circumstances,sir.We salute you!👍🏻😁👍🏻 |
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Post by seraphant on Mar 29, 2020 20:12:20 GMT -5
What LED is used for the shoto to get the brighter green?
I think for the latest run I've seen people use some kind of multi-color LED so they can get the greens and Blue. Seeing as I have the original run version I wanted to stick to the greens.
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Post by profezzorn on Mar 30, 2020 3:18:34 GMT -5
Are these still available?
I'm noticing that the solos hold page still exists and lets me put in the cart.
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Post by Solo's Hold on Mar 30, 2020 4:54:29 GMT -5
Are these still available? I'm noticing that the solos hold page still exists and lets me put in the cart. Yes sir, and it very much exists. |
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Post by spacemanspif on Apr 24, 2020 6:14:23 GMT -5
Are these still available at Korbanth? I'm not sure I trust myself to make them myself as my first build.
Any reviews from the people that got theirs from them? Happy with them? Sorry, I'm new to all this.
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Post by Obi-Shane on Apr 24, 2020 14:21:26 GMT -5
Are these still available at Korbanth? I'm not sure I trust myself to make them myself as my first build. Any reviews from the people that got theirs from them? Happy with them? Sorry, I'm new to all this. Forcelama is that you? |
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Post by spacemanspif on Apr 24, 2020 16:39:20 GMT -5
Are these still available at Korbanth? I'm not sure I trust myself to make them myself as my first build. Any reviews from the people that got theirs from them? Happy with them? Sorry, I'm new to all this. Forcelama is that you? lol no I really am a guy with zero experience in this hobby |
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Post by businessformal on Apr 27, 2020 0:38:45 GMT -5
So, I lost one of the black blade retention screws. I'd dearly like to not only acquire a replacement, but actually a few, just in case this event occurs again.
Is there a way for me to buy these from you? Or can you point me to an appropriate source for the correct size/threading online?
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Post by Solo's Hold on May 19, 2020 17:37:41 GMT -5
They are 6-32 1/8th inch long. You can pick them up at almost any local hardware store in the country.
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Post by wraithier on May 20, 2020 16:05:42 GMT -5
Hey everyone!
Question: I just received my order of this set from Solo’s Hold a couple days ago. Today I was watching the parts breakdown from 3 years ago and it was mentioned that switches should be included. 2 per saber I believe - can anyone confirm if this is correct? I have 4 plungers for switches but the actually switches themselves are no where to be found. I just want to confirm before I send out an email.
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Post by Obi-Shane on May 21, 2020 6:13:16 GMT -5
Update and Bump 5/21/2020!
Run #3 is LIVE for Pre-orders ONLY. Aaron's been out of stock and he's been getting slammed for inquiries so it's time for another run. Target Date for completion and shipping is August 10th 2020. |
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Post by wraithier on May 21, 2020 13:37:46 GMT -5
Hey everyone! Question: I just received my order of this set from Solo’s Hold a couple days ago. Today I was watching the parts breakdown from 3 years ago and it was mentioned that switches should be included. 2 per saber I believe - can anyone confirm if this is correct? I have 4 plungers for switches but the actually switches themselves are no where to be found. I just want to confirm before I send out an email. Never mind - only first run came with switches |
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