DJS / BR / 7C "MoM of all Heroes" Design Thread

Nice. Thanks.

Question. What do you think the true angle is on the ring grooves? It looks like Phoenix props went with 90 degrees but I think the real prop might be a bit sharper than that. Probably not as sharp as 60 degrees but I suppose it could be.

Key points about the main body shown above, these are different than a lot of replicas.

1.) outer diameter is 38mm.
2.) groove recessed ring that sits directly behind the control box has an outer diameter of 37mm (most folks conclude 36mm but that is incorrect. This means 0.5mm is taken off the main body with a lathe such that the trough is 0.5mm deep and 3mm wide.

3.) for my replica model, I am using an internal diameter of 32mm which makes the main body compatible with 1.24" chassis from Goth and others. I am keeping an eye specifically to Goth's 1.24" all-in-one chassis variants.

4.) I am using MHSv1 thread size and pitch for the main body. This ensures greatest compatibility as a stand-alone component as well as providing compatibility with the MHS adapter discs (the reason for this will emerge later). This thread size and pitch is 1 3/8 x 18 TPI UN.

5.) thread depth is 15mm for this female part. (Same as MHSv1)

Total height of the main body component is 89mm. (53mm top, 3mm groove, 33mm bottom).

ARKM. This should allow you to begin crafting this component.

Thank you sir. I appreciate it.

take it back. Looks like closer to 70-degrees.

Observe:





brrogers. Couple of items to clean up but getting close to having main body and grenade done.

Looking up indexable turning tool inserts, I found two common sizes that are in between 60 and 90 degrees, 62.5 and 80. Do you think it could be one of those? Even if the actual prop is 70 degrees, I personally would use either 60, 62.5, 80 or 90 for the grooves for ease of machining.

I wish there were better pics of the RotJ Hero saber out there as it looks like the angles are all over the place. Maybe they are and the machinist was an idiot. Regardless it's really does appear to be in between 60 and 90 degrees and not either of those. I can say that the TLJ Luke saber as well as the MR Elite and Limited Edition RotJ Luke saber grooves all appear to be either 60 (or 62.5) degrees, going by the the pics that are available of them.

Dude this looks great.

I have to ask: what’s your background? It seems like you’ve got all the skills to do what I’ve been wanting to learn to do.

Btw the model looks great so far... I really appreciate being clued in! I’ve been swamped at work, sorry for not jumping in sooner.
Since you’re making a new model it might make sense to engineer solutions that are non-traditional to account for some of the struggles we’ve been running into with other builds.

I don’t have time yet today but I have a lot of ideas for install friendliness.

In short though.
1. Pommel. Use an 89sabers MK1/lukyanov style sound venting.
2. Machine a flat face in the control box so the machine screws for the arrow plate can have a proper seating. If there’s a female flat area on the body you’d never see it if it’s smaller than the control box footprint
3. Similar to the PP 7Ch arrow plate, use a recess to put the back of the arrows up against.... but have the hole the size of the arrow for proper light diffusion. I have to work that out but it’s something that always bugs me.
4. Like you mentioned, use small screws around the perimeter of the control box like romans V4, so the contents can have a functional circuit reveal.
5. Maybe having the plate on a rocker like i think KRs does would be the solution for activation? Might look more cannon.

6. The fully threaded reinforced neck on the windvane area. I was disappointed it wasn’t steel like PP/7Ch promised.

7. as long as a flush emitter blade plug looks great I don’t have a problem with the traditional style but for display a screw on emitter flange (like solos hold’ original V2) could be really cool for swapping

Alright brrogers,

My big reply. I plan to revamp the initial post with some of this but some of my similar thoughts are over in the Talk of Heroes thread where this sort of came to a head. Haha... but here are responses inline:

My background and education is in software engineering. I have been in the tech field for about 20 years. I manage a large development division now so I only code in my spare time now, and this is the reason I am contributing to ProffieOS. My way of getting back to coding while also helping the saber community. I'm an avid supporter of ProffieOS. As for CAD I am super rusty but took a ton of it as part of my CS major in college. Also as a cosplayer I find myself having to model and print stuff often, though I have never modeled something for machining or CNC before. So I expect issues to arise. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I planned on the exact same thing. Again. I will move some of these thoughts over from the Talk of Heroes thread.

I plan to do exactly that. I plan to do 3 pommel cap models. Screen solid with the cone divet. A Lukyanov hidden vented... and a normal vented. These all will be endcaps but I also want the pommel itself to unscrew behind the main body to access kill switches and recharge ports and whatnot because the whole detachable speaker thing kind of bugs me.

We had the same thought. Again I put this over in Talk of Heroes and will copy it over here. Just haven't had time yet to move all of this over but yes. I want longer m1.6 screws and the control box will allow for this. I also want a romans style tiny plate screws and have the box mounted at the bottom of the box to allow for a more open top design like the cave build. Already have been talking to jbkuma about a special PCB. This will be side buttons only no card button. What I don't know yet is whether it should be a Lukyanov style rocker or two separate buttons like the TCSS / LS6 box.

get out of my head. Again. Planned on the same thing. Should be easy enough to have triangles into the box too and just have a larger footprint flange on the plastic triangles. Sort of like you did on your original romans build...?.

I know I want side button activation. No card because I want the card to slide out to reveal the board. But yes I am undecided on rocker vs buttons. I really love how Lukyanov did this though. I am mercilessly taking some of his design concepts for sure.

Well the neck will have the inside threaded cup. But I haven't sorted out machining yet. I plan to post the model for free and see if I can find a maker to collaborate with for a run maybe. The model will have free use for non-commercial and for commercial with reasonable restrictions (like all contributors get a free work made off the model.)I personally would like steel as well with the cup set up for pixel pogo-pin PCBs. Maybe aluminum for in-hilt with a larger cup and steel with a shallower cup for pixel installs?

I can make a solid emitter model easily, but not sure I'd machine it? That is a lot of extra parts for mix and match. Maybe options? I already plan to do both idealized AND canon ribs which already makes for two separate grenades. I suspect the best way to do that would be to have buyers select options and provide add-on parts. Again, this is was how Lukyanov did it.

ARKM.

Your best bet for idealized ribs are 2.25mm widths except for the one closest to the emitter (keeping that at 2.5mm): that would give each rib save the forward most one the exact same width and maintain all other measurements without change.

I plan to make the idealized grenade that way.

Objections?

Here's a thought... wonder if I get a finished model... wonder if I could hand it off to Solo's Hold to make a run from...? 😋

A guy can dream right? Nerfworxlab Hero based on my model...? Mmmmmm

Solos hold would be cool; though I just wonder how you get into the cool kids club haha.
Dan seems to have good luck with his manufacturer: although he’s planning a Hero run soon as well I would wonder if he’d have any suggestions.

It might be an interesting idea also to make it an open source hero... where anyone could take the blueprints to their local machinist and have control over their ‘own prototype’... that’s kind of an extreme idea where no-one saves money but some might find it a rewarding experience ~_~.

I wonder if part of the issue with the pommel is that manufacturers are having a problem getting the cubes to clock correctly ‘without’ timing shins... thus having the cubes machine with the body

the model is going to be public and open for precisely that reason. I want people to be able to make their own as they see fit. I am a big believer in open-source. If a major manufacturer picks up the design to do a large run is where there will be some constraints (credit, and a free one, etc.)

And yes, that is my guess is that it is a thread clocking issue.

naigon,

I know you HAVE to have some opinions....

What would you like to see on a "perfect" FX-capable RoTJ Hero?

your points in the first paragraph are duly noted. I think given you like the smaller size the PP after following the canon guide I am working on and they send corrected ribs will meet your needs.

I am working on producing a perfect canon and canon sized as well hilt model.

But naigon. Since I am posting a public model when done. You could always resize it down if you wanted it smaller? (You'd have to recalibrate thread sizes though, a simple scale of the model would not work.)

Also specifically I am not using MHS sizing of the tubes. I am merely using the same thread size and pitch for the main body. That would allow people who so chose to Frankenstein the back part of the saber or whatnot. It is a convenient and known threading.

The body diameter itself however is at 38mm OD which is pulled from multiple reference photos of the original MoM aluminum prop. I am basing my model on multiple photos of this prop I have and extrapolation from a series of known measurements to achieve an accurate size to the original prop.