Howdy peoples,wondering a thing or two about this stuff:
So I get the principle,but am a little unclear on the finer points of usage... maybe Solo's Hold could chime in on this,as his tutorial vid on A-14 was relevant & this certainly seems a similar product.
This particular product apparently can be used at room temperature,but as A-14 needs heat for permananence I wondered if there were any similar issues with this blacking compound also that some of you may have encountered.Does it need any dilution,can it be spray-applied...?
I'm asking about this prior to any purchase,so there may be totally clear instructions on the bottle,but figured any foreknowledge would be useful before I soak my scratch-built hilt in the wrong stuff,or in the wrong way.The saber I'm making is going to be of the heavily weathered variety,not just accented,so this may or may not be the right stuff for the job.
Last Edit: Jun 17, 2020 14:05:02 GMT -5 by Guylo Ren
A word of caution, it can be very stinky unless you do a good job of rinsing off the part after you've achieved the desired effect. Even then, the sulfur smell can persist essentially forever unless you seal the part with a clearcloat.
I spray bottle it, some full force then some more spritzy splotches. Depends on your desired result. Heat gun helps it to absorb better I have found. From light to heavy weathering, it's great stuff. Wear gloves and Scotchbrite is your friend.
Oh wow,fantastic info all round,cheers guys!Looks spectacular on that Starkiller,proper grungy look.Brilliant,will be trying it out on a test piece of shroud that got screwed up on the miller- ordered a bottle of it today. Thanks again all!👍🏻
First application was purely straight onto the part with a Q-tip & nothing else,just to see.Extremely blotchy so decided to do the proper clean first as per the bottle instructions (we have an ultrasonic degreasing machine at work which is super-handy for this).The process also removed most of the blackening too,underlining how essential surface preparation is- it's amazing how much oil gets onto metal simply from handling,isn't it.
On second application,stuck with the Q-tip but went for overall coverage.Still went on very blotchy,the black really does happen fast.I observed that if the agent runs along the part,you get a run in the blackening,end of.
So next,possibly a shallow tray with some of the compound pooled & sort of roll the piece in it,for better surface coverage. Bottle instructions say not to decant it,so maybe not a safe idea to put it in a spray bottle?
Overall the look is cool,debating going for anodising instead then hand-apply weathering damage afterwards... As per your warning,sa22c,the sulphur smell can persist ever so slightly even after extensive rinsing & scrubbing,so definitely a clearcoat as a final step if I go with this.
Early days on cosmetics as I haven't machined all of the hilt yet,but great to finally get some experience with surface finish work going.
Cheers again,all- will update as I progress,with a proper build post.👍🏻
Last Edit: Jun 28, 2020 2:39:42 GMT -5 by Guylo Ren: Typo!
Personally,I think the first pic looks best. You'll end up removing most of the black, just let it live in the nooks and crannies. Buff/polish high spots that get handled all the time. That's the trick. Did you heat gun the piece first? Black happens much faster.
I find that basically manhandling it, wrapping it in scotchbrite sheet and grab it a million times with pressure and slight twist/slide each time works great
Last Edit: Jun 28, 2020 7:46:00 GMT -5 by nosloppy
Oldish thread now,but I started it so I'm adding to it- so there!😁
So I will finally be getting my awesome KRORssguard installed in a few months hopefully,but the installer doesn't do the weathering so I had to either pay for the service elsewhere or do my own.Here is the beast as I first opened it:
...& I decided to take the plunge!
So after carefully experimenting on the pommel of my old first saber (a US Consular,their take on a Qui-Gon),I found that using the stainless steel brush wheel attachment on my rotary tool took off enough anodising to get me pretty much exactly the heavier TFA weathering look I wanted:
I carried on to do the rest of the hilt:
The side emitters were kindly heat treated for me by one of the toolmakers at work thus:
As you can tell he suggested we do it by heating under a steel strip from below & watching the colours spread up by conduction,but it was happening so slowly we went to direct heat which was much more effective.It didn't end up as even as I wanted,so polished it mostly off (as can be seen in the previous pics) & will redo at a later date.
Then I took the rotary tool to the little tabs that affix around the grip & lower sections of the hilt.I got carried away after the success of the main hilt body & went in way too heavy,taking off far too much of the original black anodising,d'oh.So decided to aluminium-black them back up for another attempt:
Started looking much better with the judicious use of mid to fine sandpapers:
So far so good.So I did the whole batch,aiming for a difference between upper & lower tabs based on how much contact I imagined they would receive in long use on an aged hilt,then matt clearcoated them to seal in the Birchwood Casey business:
Moving on to the plastic upper & lower engines,I basecoated them in Rustoleum Metallic Chrome (in practice,it comes out looking more like a brushed ali finish than chrome,which in this instance doesn't matter,but just FYI):
Then I weathered them up with black acrylic washes,blotting & reapplying to taste as necessary:
Have also added "dirt" weathering to the recess & edges of the red pommel cap,& generally on the brass belt clip,in Humbrol matt black enamel.
That's where I'm up to at present,so thought it might be a useful reference for anyone else weathering their own crossguard or purely as process documentation.
All pointers or comments welcome!👍🏻
Edit: loads more pics added.
Last Edit: Feb 1, 2021 2:25:33 GMT -5 by Guylo Ren: Typo!
vargose: Verso $45, Sabercore $30, DIYino $30, Golden Harvest $60, Proffie $45, CFX $85. Do you remember when the days when the Crystal focus was $150? Gotta love the sheer availability of options now.
May 17, 2021 9:31:59 GMT -5