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Post by dayadjocen on Apr 16, 2019 10:05:46 GMT -5
brrogers, Since you seem to also be a brother-in-arms in "canonizing" the PP. I have a couple additional questions / thoughts to bounce off of you. 1.) I am thinking of spinning off a separate thread specifically about making the necessary changes to the PP to make it canon. Would you be ok if I referenced your images and technique descriptions in doing so? 2.) I notice you also correctly colored the underside of the copper plate overhang to be the grey. May I ask what shade of gray paint you used? 3.) specifically what length of m1 screws did you use? Clearly you used binding head from the looks of it, and I also assume you created a ledge in the faceplate (which would be a 0.25mm lip around the perimeter)... is that correct? How deep did you go and did you modify the screw head at all to create an overhang on the back side, or no? Thanks!
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Post by brrogers on Apr 16, 2019 11:16:21 GMT -5
brrogers , Since you seem to also be a brother-in-arms in "canonizing" the PP. I have a couple additional questions / thoughts to bounce off of you. 1.) I am thinking of spinning off a separate thread specifically about making the necessary changes to the PP to make it canon. Would you be ok if I referenced your images and technique descriptions in doing so? 2.) I notice you also correctly colored the underside of the copper plate overhang to be the grey. May I ask what shade of gray paint you used? 3.) specifically what length of m1 screws did you use? Clearly you used binding head from the looks of it, and I also assume you created a ledge in the faceplate (which would be a 0.25mm lip around the perimeter)... is that correct? How deep did you go and did you modify the screw head at all to create an overhang on the back side, or no? Thanks! 1. Yeah of course. 2. Craft Smart Premium Satin Shark Grey Acrylic Paint. (Found at Michaels locally) 3. I happened to have 8mm length M1.6 x 0.35 and just trimmed them down. Here is the list:  My method: Part a: use a jewelers file to extend the arrow points. Part b: fabricate new arrows. (I machined mine from acrylic surface embellishments I found at michaels; by gluing them down , facing them, then would rotate them taking off a long straight pass to get each point to 60°. Part C: apply glue to the underside of the control box where it meets the saber body then screw the assembly together tightly. Allow to cure Part D: glue the arrows and the plate down aligning all the current holes. Part E: use the pilot bit noted above to drill to the appropriate depth for the screws. Part F: VERY carefully tap the holes. Part G: Use a 7/32” drill bit and very carefully drill the holes on the plate just enough for the screws to tighten into the appropriate position for accurate depth and clocking. No modification of the screws themselves necessary |
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Post by dayadjocen on Apr 16, 2019 11:34:43 GMT -5
brrogers , Since you seem to also be a brother-in-arms in "canonizing" the PP. I have a couple additional questions / thoughts to bounce off of you. 1.) I am thinking of spinning off a separate thread specifically about making the necessary changes to the PP to make it canon. Would you be ok if I referenced your images and technique descriptions in doing so? 2.) I notice you also correctly colored the underside of the copper plate overhang to be the grey. May I ask what shade of gray paint you used? 3.) specifically what length of m1 screws did you use? Clearly you used binding head from the looks of it, and I also assume you created a ledge in the faceplate (which would be a 0.25mm lip around the perimeter)... is that correct? How deep did you go and did you modify the screw head at all to create an overhang on the back side, or no? Thanks! 1. Yeah of course. 2. Craft Smart Premium Satin Shark Grey Acrylic Paint. (Found at Michaels locally) 3. I happened to have 8mm length M1.6 x 0.35 and just trimmed them down. Here is the list: My method: Part a: use a jewelers file to extend the arrow points. Part b: fabricate new arrows. (I machined mine from acrylic surface embellishments I found at michaels; by gluing them down , facing them, then would rotate them taking off a long straight pass to get each point to 60°. Part C: apply glue to the underside of the control box where it meets the saber body then screw the assembly together tightly. Allow to cure Part D: glue the arrows and the plate down aligning all the current holes. Part E: use the pilot notes to drill to the appropriate depth for the screws. Part F: VERY carefully tap the holes. Part G: Use a 7/32” drill bit and very carefully drill the holes on the plate just enough for the screws to tighten into the appropriate position for accurate depth and clocking. No modification of the screens themselves necessary beautiful! I love how you explained this. We think along the same wavelength. 👍 I think the only noticeable difference in our approaches are that I am going to first attempt m1.6 x 4mm countersunk flathead slotted screws (same as yours only 4mm long instead) and first attempt to avoid drilling all the way into the tube body. If that does not provide sufficient bite (though a class 4.8, m1.6 x .35 screw states it only needs 2.5mm of depth to achieve it's rated hold strength), then I will do what you did and go deeper and into the tube. |
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Post by dayadjocen on Apr 16, 2019 14:58:16 GMT -5
Also to those who don't have mills and lathes: You can chamfer with a steady hand and a file too. I did this on mine with just an Emory board and some elbow grease if you'd believe it!   (I will go back and do it on the endmill to plum it all up since this is my personal saber. But I wanted to show everyone it can be done without fancy equipment). Now that I've done that... I'll go mill it to be more precise. 😋 (And repolish the face cuz I scuffed it by accident with the Emory board). |
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Post by brrogers on Apr 17, 2019 16:28:34 GMT -5
Last pic for a bit: i think I’m done shaping. Took a bit off a couple rings and finished the grenade and windvane with some matte clear and buffing.  Ill I’ll double check the ring dimensions when I get home  |
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Post by brrogers on Apr 20, 2019 16:35:03 GMT -5
I posted this in picture form on the other thread... here is my big note about the Phoenix props 7 Chambers in video form.
Please excuse my exasperation
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Post by dayadjocen on Apr 20, 2019 16:49:45 GMT -5
I posted this in picture form on the other thread... here is my big note about the Phoenix props 7 Chambers in video form. Please excuse my exasperation beautifully argued, my friend. 👍 |
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Post by forcellama on May 5, 2019 17:32:06 GMT -5
hey gang,
just got an email from Derrek saying that the tri rings have been shipped and should be arriving imminently, whilst the ribs are still being worked on by the machinist. llama = helping
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Post by dayadjocen on May 5, 2019 17:40:55 GMT -5
hey gang, just got an email from Derrek saying that the tri rings have been shipped and should be arriving imminently, whilst the ribs are still being worked by the machinist. llama = helping yay! |
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Post by sosdd on May 6, 2019 13:42:06 GMT -5
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Post by dayadjocen on May 6, 2019 13:56:12 GMT -5
These are still wrong. But better. |
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Post by sosdd on May 6, 2019 14:23:18 GMT -5
I wasn’t saying, I was just saying......
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Post by dayadjocen on May 6, 2019 14:30:58 GMT -5
I wasn’t saying, I was just saying...... I am excited to have the corrected rib section as they made it. As I see it, it allows me to hack the first one and try to make it proportionately correct (which, given I think I know the ACTUAL dimensions of the original MoM prop, I can downscale by 38/36ths (5.555556%) to the PP underscale and cut ribs that should be proportionately accurate on the first botched grenade section. Having their updated one makes me less nervous about messing up such a modification. |
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Post by brrogers on May 10, 2019 15:53:24 GMT -5
yeah the new rings look better overall... 'thin' rings (2,6,8,9) still look too wide :\. Their lighting and angle for those shots also doesn't really help people see the improvement. : /
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Post by goodie2325 on May 10, 2019 21:59:23 GMT -5
yeah the new rings look better overall... 'thin' rings (2,6,8,9) still look too wide :\. Their lighting and angle for those shots also doesn't really help people see the improvement. : / I still think the mod you made to your rib section was amazing and looked accurate as hell! |
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Post by sosdd on May 12, 2019 11:58:19 GMT -5
I’m having a hell of a time getting the copper part off of the ribbed section......
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Post by sosdd on May 12, 2019 12:05:15 GMT -5
Where’s the link to the new run thread?
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Post by forcellama on May 12, 2019 12:44:03 GMT -5
Where’s the link to the new run thread? new run? |
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Post by Rogue 5 on May 12, 2019 12:45:45 GMT -5
Where’s the link to the new run thread? new run? I think he means the MoM DA/BR run |
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Post by sosdd on May 12, 2019 12:50:59 GMT -5
I found the interest thread....thanks guys
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Post by forcellama on Jun 22, 2019 10:44:35 GMT -5
what news?
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Post by dayadjocen on Jun 22, 2019 10:49:33 GMT -5
I will chime in here.
Some leakage from Lewis:
"I might as well let it be known, but the Hero is being redone correctly, thanks to joint efforts. It sucks that yours has gone missing, but I will ensure you get one at no expense, and I'll be offering trade ins for anyone that was unsatisfied with the first version.
As for what happened with the run. The sources I spoke to, and got material from were unfortunately not as knowledgeable as they led on. As for the machinist, he's now gone rogue with false promises of delivery times, delays and more. It's made me look bad, through and through. I take full responsibility, hence why I'm seeing it through until the end. However, I like to think I'm a man of resolve, and I'll ensure you are not without a 1:1 Hero, with the money you have already paid."
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Post by Rogue 5 on Jun 22, 2019 11:26:19 GMT -5
Yeah I saw that. I've never heard of anyone offering trade ins for a subpar prop to an upgraded one. Lewis will win a lot of customers back if he does this.
I'd love to know who the sources were that led him astray.
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Post by dayadjocen on Jun 22, 2019 11:27:52 GMT -5
Yeah I saw that. I've never heard of anyone offering trade ins for a subpar prop to an upgraded one. Lewis will win a lot of customers back if he does this. I'd love to know who the sources were that led him astray. as would I. Also note, Lewis is doing this and handling this. Derrek will route any inquiries to Lewis so expect to deal with 7C for this and not PP. Kudos to Lewis for doing this. This is gonna be a big financial sink for him. |
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Post by dayadjocen on Jun 22, 2019 11:39:37 GMT -5
Lewis will be handling this offer when it comes. Minor mods will be accepted. Unclear at what threshold yet but minor box mod chamfers, and faceplate polishes should be fine.
Expect additional details from Lewis when the time comes.
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Post by sosdd on Jun 22, 2019 13:16:49 GMT -5
This is the first I’ve heard of, or seen anything, concerning this. I would think this would be a big enough deal that the news would be a bit more publicized and widespread. I’m not holding my breath here.......
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Post by dayadjocen on Jun 22, 2019 13:29:59 GMT -5
This is the first I’ve heard of, or seen anything, concerning this. I would think this would be a big enough deal that the news would be a bit more publicized and widespread. I’m not holding my breath here....... Lewis is planning to fully announce sometime in July. |
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Post by sosdd on Jun 22, 2019 18:26:12 GMT -5
I have no reason to distrust you on this but I think very cautious optimism is in order my friend
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Post by dayadjocen on Jun 22, 2019 18:55:22 GMT -5
I have no reason to distrust you on this but I think very cautious optimism is in order my friend don't disagree there |
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Post by forcellama on Jun 22, 2019 19:46:27 GMT -5
I have no reason to distrust you on this but I think very cautious optimism is in order my friend don't disagree there +1, this is all very strange to me. guess i should take down my auction on ebay, tho. |
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